The black part of the socket cant go past the metal edge, or it wont slide into the chair plastic.

The sockets have to be "in-line" and centered with the square holes, or the lamps wont line up with the holes in the chair plastic.

main-qimg-2e144bcf93c3106cb73e75f27038b201-lq (resized).jpeg

It's still good.
(taken from the Simpsons)

And for a more constructive comment, if I were you I would consider getting EVERYTHING placed correctly then strip the whole thing, fill all the speed holes and sand it good then re assemble it all.

Trying to fix all those holes with the playfield populated will be a nightmare and will never look good, not to mention all the micro particles of sawdust n crap you will get in all the mechanicals and little crevice's.
 
Matt.

Time for a playfield swap

Here are some reference points to get that outhole kicker located:
20240418_121351 (resized).jpg20240418_121545 (resized).jpg20240418_121801 (resized).jpg

Get it installed close to this and you will be fine.

The coil bracket is less important.

Just set it about where you see it in the pictures (about 1/16" back and about 1/8" to the left, and somewhat squared up to the pivot assembly), the plunger should be vertical enough for the assembly to work right.

Chair bracket (how I do it):

The rear of the square cutout has to be widened.

Mark it like this:
20240418_125859 (resized).jpg

dremel or use a file:20240418_130201 (resized).jpg

Ends up like this (it doesnt have to be totally precise):
20240418_132024 (resized).jpg

find some 2 lug sockets (it doesnt matter if they are wedge or bayonet style)

I use the bayonet style (so the bulbs stop falling out).

Bend with duck bill or neede nose like this (bend as needed to get the sockets more or less straight):

20240418_131748 (resized).jpg

Push the mounting tabs thru the cutout and rest them on the bump:
20240418_131921 (1) (resized).jpg

Check for straightness:

20240418_131941 (resized).jpg
20240418_131950 (resized).jpg

Rivet the sockets onto the bracket.

The rivet is 3/16" with one backing washer.

The rivet is installed from the "bump" or socket tab side. This way you can hold everything together and slide the washer into the depression, then over the rivet.

Its easily held together with one hand, then apply the rivet press to the assembly.

The rivet will center the sockets for you, no further adjustment is necessary.

total build time: 15 mins.

All done
20240418_142010 (resized).jpg

yeah pretty ugly, could be better, but if it works? go for it lol !!!

Mine so far,

No plastic carving, no filing, it fits better than the original one, bulbs wont fall out every 3 plays etc...

The chair plastic slides on and off easily. The sockets dont hang up on the side holes like the original one did.
20240418_151930 (resized).jpg

20240418_151220 (resized).jpg

(Note: the washer is in the depression on the socket side). Rivet is installed from the other side.

Ill make a cable for it tomorrow.

orangegsx thanks for your input on this! Great pictures.

Looks like Shred did it his way, way out of the box thinking!

My chair is done.

I added the insulators and made up a new harness.
I was too lazy to dig for proper wire colors, so I just ran paint pens over some red and yellow wire:
20240419_123438 (resized).jpg
To insulate the lamp bases, I just epoxied a couple fiche paper switch insulators with a tiny drop of glue:
20240419_123503 (resized).jpg
A little loop of extra red wire in case one has to replace a diode in the future (like on the original).
20240419_123607 (resized).jpg
20240419_123624 (resized).jpg
Diodes facing away from the chair
20240419_123641 (resized).jpg

I just noticed that your chair is on backwards. You might be able to just flip it around.

(Dont feel bad, Its a great attempt for not having the benefit of a sample to copy).

And the wires should be trailing out the rear of the assembly (rear of the chair to hide them after installing)..

Please take a look at the pictures I posted.

I put a pic of the original next to my new one for reference.
backwards bracket (resized).jpg

Parts I used on my chair build:

2 ea - LAMP SOCKET - BAYONET BASE 2 TERMINAL
#077-5003-00

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5003-00

1 ea - ADDAMS FAMILY (BALLY) BRACKET CHAIR
#01-10593

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10593

2 ea - INSULATOR - SWITCH FISHPAPER
#01-8600

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8600

1 ea - RIVET - 1/8 X 3/16 INCH LONG
#249-5001-00

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/249-5001-00

1 ea - 1/8" back-up washer for the rivet

1 ea - CONNECTOR 4 PIN .062 INCH TERMINALS
#5791-10774-00

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5791-10774-00

4 ea - CRIMP TERMINAL .062 INCH MALE
#5820-09078-00

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5820-09078-00

18" of 22 ga red and 18" of 22 ga yellow wire.

2 IN4007 (or equivalent) diodes

2 small nylon ties

2 pieces of 1/8" thin wall aquarium tubing. Each piece is 3" long.

Bryan Kelly might have some of the diode tubing if you cant find it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-thin-wall-clear-tubing?tu=Bryan_Kelly

Its a fun thing to build.

The bracket took about 15 mins, the harness took about 30 mins.

The harness ends up being about 7 1/2" long with about 6" coming from the chair bracket to the end of the connector:
20240419_132630 (resized).jpg

I did trim off the outer holes on the socket lugs with diagonals to clean up the look a little.

Is this thing done yet ….. so I can buy it.

Lol, pretty soon! I had to work out of town all last week.

So I was late in showing how to build the electric chair for Shred.

I just put pop bumper nails, actual Reese Rails, and mylars on my game today from the guy on Ebay.

I love his mylar sets.

Mylars are manditory in the pop area as well as where there is a ball drop.

Other areas as one sees fit to compensate for early wear of the playfield.

ebay.com link: itm
20240420_145715 (resized).jpg

I dont think you have to do a swap.

Clear off the bottom side.

Hammer and glue dowels into the holes and sand it all flat.

If it were me, It would only take a few hours.

there is a way to remove EVEYTHING and yet keep it in one piece.

the concept is to unbolt EVERYTHING and slide a big piece of cardboard under EVERYthing as you go.

When done move the cardboard (with everything on it) to the side (on a table pushed against the work area), repair the playfield, lay the cardboard over the playfield and reinstall everything bit by bit, sliding the cardboard out as you go.

Route operators did this frequently.

The entire operation takes about 2-3 hours. It takes 2 tables.

I have done it this way myself, So I can verify that the bottom side can be done in 2 to 4 hours with powered screw guns.

One team did it in 45 mins, but it was a MUCH simpler game.

Put dowels in the unneeded holes befor you start.

This way its SUPER easy to reinstall everything as you know where it all goes.

One thing I do is draw around EVERYTHING with a pencil this way its very, VERY easy.

Gottlieb playfields come printed with outlines for every single part and also list the part nunber ON THE PLAYFIELD!

They were definitely ahead of their time.

At this point I’d maybe suggest borrowing a used playfield populated or not as a reference to complete your build.

I would think you might have the parts already?

You just have to refine your build a bit.

You can either use wedge sockets or bayonet style.

I just know from playing the game that the wedge bulbs/sockets fall out periodically.

Ive been sick for 2 days, but back on this project!

Translucent/frosted pop-bumper bodies, wut?!?!?!?
20240424_111211 (resized).jpg

Look great, much better than the transparent!

Just trying to hide the wires/sockets from my comet disk lamps.

It would be great if Zitt would carry these translucent ones again, but I bought a lot of clear ones that could be painted already.

Please check these dimensions:
Back of actuator (kicker arm) to edge of trough runway = 11/16":
20240424_132503 (resized).jpg

Coil pivot to edge of playfield =13/16" or more (you can pivot or turn or twist the coil bracket to get it away from the playfield edge. It does NOT have to be square with the actuator arm bracket. It just has to straight up and down with the actuator pivot) The coil bracket can be rotated on the plungers axis to get more clearance:

20240424_132638 (resized).jpg

Use a square or straight edge to make sure that no part of the coil assembly is hanging over the edge (my coil is reversed, yours is correct) If the corner of the coil hangs over the edge of the playfield, you wont be able to raise and lower it easily:

20240424_132604 (resized).jpg

If the actuator (kicker arm) is too far inside the trough runway. it will hit the second ball instead of the first one.

Put a couple balls on your trough runway, and manually test that kicker hits the first ball and not the second.

There is room for error on these dimensions, just a little.

Me neither, but if it's anything to do with superhero's that's probably why, no my cuppa.

Matt.

I knew who it was! I used to sit through that movie as a kid just to see the very pretty Helen Slater. She is still quite attractive, even with that poor lighting. I love it when women start going gray, but keep their original hairstyle like that. It's so pretty!

VERY slowly catching up!

No time for building the pops today, probably monday.
But I had enough parts in stock for the 5 units:

20240427_174350 (resized).jpg

I ran a low temp heat gun (hair dryer) over the mylars and powerfully rubbed them all down, then dry buffed them with flannel.

I can barely see the mylar now!

20240427_174434 (resized).jpg

Curious why mylar to begin with? With the known issues and damage down the line - why not put a good clear on it if it'll be HUO and call it a day? Or send to Kruzman?

All good factory games have mylar between the pops and where the ball drops onto the playfield, its necessary.

Williams applied 3 mil clear mylar, on the pops and drops at the factory. You could also order "full" factory mylar for busy location play.
This is in addition to the "Diamond Plate" clear that was already applied to most games by 1993.

I do my own clear coating, No need to waste Ron's time on something as simple as a little clear paint:
6 coats of clear sanded down to 3, cured for 12 weeks and machine buffed to high gloss
20240420_145657 (resized).jpg

With the 5 pops, EXTREME wear will definitely appear in a few thousand plays.

The finest and most durable clear will dull, get scraped up and collect ground in black dirt.

This is absolute.

Its easiest to add the much needed mylar at this point.

Im using a lo-tac mylar that will be easy to change out a few years down the road.

During the mylar replacement it will be very easy to re-buff the clear and be good for thousands of plays again.

I build my games to exceed the quality of the original.

My hope it that my games will last 50 years or more if I do my job right.

What game are we building next? You need something more challenging next time.

Im thinking he could do a MM !

Easier than TAF.

That does sometimes happen if the surface isnt prepared, but usually the ball rolls it down and burnishes it into the surface.

Mylar is pretty tough stuff. Pop bumper mylar will last 50,000 plays (or more) before needing to be changed out.

If the surface is well prepared, polished to a mirror and wax free, the mylar sticks like crazy.

I also use an application fluid (rapid-tac) to set it in place.

This has no soap in it and actually promotes adhesion.

The problem in the past hasnt been getting it to stick, but to remove it without damaging the playfield.

Fortunately, we have figured out how to do that now.

How do you remove it? Freeze spray?

Feeze spray or heat.

Sometimes a little of both.

Lo-Tac mylar comes up much easer than regular mylar.

With a little experirence, you can remove all mylar without pulling on it, by using freeze spray.

Left over adhesive is easily removed with rapid-tac adhesive remover.

Shredder ! When you gonna finish this beauty!?

Nice! The first game will be very special.

For the outhole, you can test it with it off but putting a ball in trough and manual pushing the mechanism fast. It should mimic how it reacts. I’d suggest if moving just put one screw in and you can tilt around until you get desired results. Make sure to install the other screws after it’s good and mind the groove as I often install shorter #6 3/8” screw in that so it doesn’t push though the top side.

Cabinet is not done yet.

You need to add the "prop" rod. You wont be able to raise the playfield, and hold it in the service position without it.

Prop rod clip, installs below the wooden block:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-12352

prop rod:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-4028

Needs a bushing for the pivot side:

the bushings are hard to get, I would ask around if anyone has a spare ( i dont or i would send it to you), or find something suitable at home depot.

(its mounted correctly on the right side of the cabinet in the photo)

There is a small hole in the prop rod to attach a ground wire.

This is an important wire. It goes from the rod, to the little bolt that sticks out of the AC power box.

The rod is fastened for transport with a rubber ring (white ring on it in the photo).

YOUR HARNESSES NEED TO BE SUPPORTED IN THE CABINET.

They are HEAVY and when the backbox is folded the connectors will literally be RIPPED out.

You will need 2 pieces 1 1/4" corrugated split hose 30" long, or 5 feet cut in half,

Or one 30" piece of 1" slit hose for the 2 cabinet harnesses,

"And" one 30" piece of 1 1/4" hose for the 3 playfield harnesses:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RM-27-08

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RM-27-07

20240501_105813 (resized).jpg

Once the slit hose is pushed onto the harness, and slid up as high as it can go, you need to secure it onto the backbox:

20240501_105852 (resized).jpg

this is accomplished by using "saddle" type nylon tie anchors and 1/4" wide nylon tie:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B8NY4SN

20240501_110016 (resized).jpg

If you cant find the saddle anchors, I can send you a few.

I'd have to look but I may have a prop rod, but no bushing.

I think its starting to look better, outhouse might be a bit harsh...

LOL ! I agree...

Whoops! Typo Shredder. Corrected.

It lightens it up for more speed.

I’ll be damned if I let this pitch sail by!