(Topic ID: 353788)

DIAMOND PLATE > WAX or not ??

By SpaceTimeGuy

52 days ago


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“DIAMOND PLATE > WAX or not ?? ”

  • WAX IT 19 votes
    76%
  • DON'T wax it 6 votes
    24%

(25 votes)

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BEFORE AFTER (resized).jpg
#1 52 days ago

Hi ... Recently got a Terminator 2 ... It hasn't been kept up well (PF was filthy) ... I stripped most everything off PF and cleaned/polished it with Novuus 2 ... It looks awesome !!

Should I wax it ??? (or not necessary?) ... I have Mill Wax (but guessing that is bad as it contains petroleum distillates (??) .. I believe ?) ... Also, have Turtle Wax Carnuba Paste Cleaner Wax ... and Meguiars Gold Class Carnuba Plus (that a pinball guy on Youtube recommended) ... After I bought the Meguiars > I noticed the can says "Keep off rubber, VINYL, and non painted surfaces" ... Turtle Wax says "NOT intended for plastic, vinyl, wood" ... Is mylar and Diamond Plate similar enough to plastic and vinyl that it could be a problem ?

Previous owner never cleaned or waxed PF in 20 years ... Wondering if I even need to wax it ??

P.S. I am replacing all bulbs on top of PF while I have it apart ... and putting in 3 new balls (standard ... not the premium) ...

#2 52 days ago
Quoted from SpaceTimeGuy:

Hi ... Recently got a Terminator 2 ... It hasn't been kept up well (PF was filthy) ... I stripped most everything off PF and cleaned/polished it with Novuus 2 ... It looks awesome !!
Should I wax it ??? (or not necessary?) ... I have Mill Wax (but guessing that is bad as it contains petroleum distillates (??) .. I believe ?) ... Also, have Turtle Wax Carnuba Paste Cleaner Wax ... and Meguiars Gold Class Carnuba Plus (that someone on Youtube recommended for mylar covered PF's) ... After I bought the Meguiars > I noticed the can says "Keep off rubber, VINYL, and non painted surfaces" ... Turtle Wax says "NOT intended for plastic, vinyl, wood" ... Is mylar and Diamond Plate similar enough to plastic and vinyl that it could be a problem ?
Previous owner never cleaned or waxed PF in 20 years ... Wondering if I even need to wax it ??
P.S. I am replacing all bulbs on top of PF while I have it apart ... and putting in 3 new balls (standard ... not the premium) ...

I've used Novus 2 , 2 or 3 coats then followed by Meguires or Blitz . Works great but be prepared for super fast game and wild shots, airballs.

Milkwax is a Cleaner/wax combo some people don't care for. The less Petroleum Distillates, the better. ( Paste wax)
It will break down over time. Make sure everything is tightened down.
Enjoy.

#3 52 days ago
Quoted from chad:

I've used Novus 2 , 2 or 3 coats then followed by Meguires or Blitz . Works great but be prepared for super fast game and wild shots, airballs.
Milkwax is a Cleaner/wax combo some people don't care for. The less Petroleum Distillates, the better. ( Paste wax)
It will break down over time. Make sure everything is tightened down.
Enjoy.

Unless the playfield is damaged, why are you using Novus 2? it is abrasive and will micro abrade the surface that it's applied to.

#4 52 days ago
Quoted from WalrusPin:

Unless the playfield is damaged, why are you using Novus 2? it is abrasive and will micro abrade the surface that it's applied to.

I get what you are saying ... The playfield on mine was REALLY dirt and figured the diamond plate had been scratched up from all the dirt and old balls rolling around for 20 years ... so a slight bit of "polishing" may actually "help" it ... ?

Do I need to wax it now ? Seems like > if it wasn't even cleaned (or waxed) for 20 years ... it won't wear for amount I will be playing it ???? BUT if waxing will help keep it as nice as possible > then I will wax it ... Just worried about any kind of "reaction" with my waxes (don't use on vinyl" ... "don't use on plastic or vinyl") and the Diamond Plate ... ?
BEFORE AFTER (resized).jpgBEFORE AFTER (resized).jpg

#5 52 days ago
Quoted from chad:

I've used Novus 2 , 2 or 3 coats then followed by Meguires or Blitz . Works great but be prepared for super fast game and wild shots, airballs.
Milkwax is a Cleaner/wax combo some people don't care for. The less Petroleum Distillates, the better. ( Paste wax)
It will break down over time. Make sure everything is tightened down.
Enjoy.

Do you think Meguiars I bought is OK (even though it says "Don't use on vinyl") ... (I don't want to take a chance on any kind of "reaction" with the Daimond Plate)

Do I need to wax it ? I DON'T need it to play any faster ... ... (I mostly have EM's and early SS games .. .so this is plenty fast for me)

#6 52 days ago

I have used meguiars in the past, the liquid stuff and I've since switched to the paste, it is more expensive. Mothers gold pure carnuba paste wax is what I use now :https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=asc_df_B0002U2V1O/

So not only am I a big wax proponent to help keep minor scratches etc off of the PF clearcoat, but as you could see that game got so dirty- and you will eventually be grinding dirt/dust/particles into the PF clearcoat layer.

So a waxed game sealed inside and left and given thousands of play will be much cleaner than one that does not get waxed. I personally will clean and wax every 500 plays or so, some can get away with less. Also make sure to clean your balls and make sure to take out any "scuffed" or "abrated" balls.

#7 52 days ago
Quoted from Whistles:

Mothers gold pure carnuba paste wax is what I use now.

Also make sure to clean your balls and make sure to take out any "scuffed" or "abrated" balls.

I have waxed all my other games ... Just wasn't sure with the Diamond Plate ...

Do you think my Meguiar's Gold Class Carbuna Plus" that says on the can > "KEEP OFF VINYL" could cause a reaction with the PF ?? I am freaking myself out here that I will try to do something good BUT end up damaging PF .... [None of the 3 auto parts stores near me carry the Mothers wax that was recommended in previous post ... I would like to get PF done and all back together this weekend] ...

Maybe I am overthinking it ... LOL ... but seems like most waxes say to keep of vinyl and plastics (and sometimes wood ... which I guess doesn't matter because there is paint or mylar between wood and wax) ... ?

Balls > Thanks .. Got brand new balls !

#8 52 days ago
Quoted from WalrusPin:

Unless the playfield is damaged, why are you using Novus 2? it is abrasive and will micro abrade the surface that it's applied to.

I've used Novus 2 on all playfields of all condition. No problem at all....

Novus 2 is a plastic polish , Diamond Coat, Tuff coat, Kryptonite (Data East I think) etc is a form of plastic, everyone and their brother used this product.

#9 52 days ago
Quoted from SpaceTimeGuy:

Do you think Meguiars I bought is OK (even though it says "Don't use on vinyl") ... (I don't want to take a chance on any kind of "reaction" with the Daimond Plate)
Do I need to wax it ? I DON'T need it to play any faster ... ... (I mostly have EM's and early SS games .. .so this is plenty fast for me)

I've used Meguires, Zymol, Carnu-B, Blitz. I have machine buffed with wax, Novus 2 to cut playfield haze, Novus 3 to cut mylar haze. ( Worked ok)

#10 52 days ago

When I get a "new" game, whether Diamond plate or not, I strip the playfield, put all metal parts in a tumbler for overnight and all plastic posts in an ultrasonic cleaner. Then I clean the playfield with Novus 2 (along with all under playfield tunnels and under apron stuff) and wax it with Sonax paste wax. The key thing here is to use very little amount of wax,you only want to fill in the minor grooves left after Novus. I also clean all playfield plastics with Novus 1.

After putting it together again, with new lamps and rubbers - and dont forget new balls - it will last quite a long time in home use. Eventually, when the playfield gets dirty I clean it with Novus 1 and apply very light layer of wax.

I dont recommend using Novus 2 regularly, since after all while being a great cleaner it is slightly abrasive and will take out some of your playfield coating every time.

#11 52 days ago
Quoted from chad:

I've used Novus 2 on all playfields of all condition. No problem at all....
Novus 2 is a plastic polish , Diamond Coat, Tuff coat, Kryptonite (Data East I think) etc is a form of plastic, everyone and their brother used this product.

A lot of people do a lot of stupid things just because everyone else does them. A polish it just that, it abrades the surface, wearing the original coat. Unless your game after using a gentle cleaning solution still has areas that are damaged, there is no need to use Novus 2 (and certainly not 3). You're just wearing through the top coat. If you are regularly cleaning and waxing a game you should never need to use it.

#12 52 days ago

I see what have a disagreement about using Novuus ...

Can we get back to my "problem" tho ... ... I have the PF stripped down and would like to get it back together this weekend !

The 3 local auto parts stores don't carry Mothers California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnuba ... Should I wax it with my Meguiars Gold Class Carnuba Plus Wax ? ("Plus" must be "protecting polymers".) ... Meguiar's can says "KEEP OFF VINYL" (in all capital letters) ... OR should I just put it back together with no wax? (Game will probably only get played 500 times in next 5 years) ...

THANKS !

#13 52 days ago

Wax it very sparingly with the most solid wax you can find.

#14 52 days ago
Quoted from SpaceTimeGuy:

I have waxed all my other games ... Just wasn't sure with the Diamond Plate ...
Do you think my Meguiar's Gold Class Carbuna Plus" that says on the can > "KEEP OFF VINYL" could cause a reaction with the PF ??

It is harder to find the "pure" stuff with no cleaning agents and little to no solvents in the Meguiars, most of them are a "cleaner wax" (uses solvents potentially and other stuff we don't need) that you will not want to use since you probably already cleaned with novus. Probably would only need a very light spray of novus1 on a microfiber to take care of the cleaning in the future now that the source dirt is out of there.

#15 52 days ago

Also as an aside, my local nappa ordered it from another store in the area and I picked it up next day, they transfer within their area. It is hard to find the non cleaner stuff- nappa was the only one out of the following to carry non-solvent wax.
Auto-zone
O'reileys
advance auto parts

None of them carried it in stock in any brand.

As to your last part- if you are not going to want to mess with this game I'd just wait to get the non cleaner wax- I'd argue that the "cleaner" wax with solvents is even going to be better than nothing, but if you want to set- and -forget this machine for long stretches wait for the non solvent stuff.

#16 52 days ago
Quoted from WalrusPin:

A lot of people do a lot of stupid things just because everyone else does them. A polish it just that, it abrades the surface, wearing the original coat. Unless your game after using a gentle cleaning solution still has areas that are damaged, there is no need to use Novus 2 (and certainly not 3). You're just wearing through the top coat. If you are regularly cleaning and waxing a game you should never need to use it.

You realize that a playfield cleaned via hand (light pressure) with Novus 2 would take A Long time to cut through the clear clear coat.

The actual pinball does more havoc than anything.

Now if a guy used Magic Eraser every time, then yes that would do some damage as well.

#17 52 days ago
Quoted from chad:

Novus 2 is a plastic polish

Polish is abrasive. That's why it's a polish.

Quoted from SpaceTimeGuy:

Also, have Turtle Wax Carnuba Paste Cleaner Wax ... and Meguiars Gold Class Carnuba Plus (that a pinball guy on Youtube recommended) ... After I bought the Meguiars > I noticed the can says "Keep off rubber, VINYL, and non painted surfaces" ... Turtle Wax says "NOT intended for plastic, vinyl, wood" ... Is mylar and Diamond Plate similar enough to plastic and vinyl that it could be a problem ?

Quoted from SpaceTimeGuy:

The 3 local auto parts stores don't carry Mothers California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnuba ... Should I wax it with my Meguiars Gold Class Carnuba Plus Wax ? ("Plus" must be "protecting polymers".) ... Meguiar's can says "KEEP OFF VINYL" (in all capital letters) ... OR should I just put it back together with no wax? (Game will probably only get played 500 times in next 5 years) ...

Blitz wax was what I used, but it looks like it hasn't been available in a while now.

The next closest thing is probably going to be P21S. Note the different waxes - 12701W (silver top) and 12700W (blue top).

12701W: https://www.amazon.com/P21S-12701W-100-Carnauba-Canada/dp/B016XVD8D0

Ingredients of 12701W: https://www.p21s.com/carnauba-wax-msds/

Ingredients of 12700W: https://www.p21s.com/concours-wax-msds/ (contains some naphtha, beeswax, silicone oil)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blitz-wax-alternatives

#18 51 days ago

This has been argued and settled long ago: no wax with cleaning agents added, no wax with silicone added, no abrasives. Naphtha on a clean, soft rag will remove old wax build up and other ick without affecting paint. Use only that first time when dealing with a super dirty, abused playfield. Otherwise vacuuming and a gentle cleaning with a slightly moist soft rag is sufficient for regular maintenance. Pure carnuba wax paste is your best friend and is really the only wax product that any of us should be using.

#19 50 days ago

pinheadpierre

THANKS ! Makes sense (no additives in wax) ... I will get a can of the previously mentioned Mothers Pure Brazilian Carnuba (and use the waxes I have on my car) ...

#20 50 days ago

I know this isn’t available anymore, but for reference I’ve been using this same 12oz jar for seven years on a rotating collection of 5-10 machines and have barely used a third of it. Pretty sure I’ve waxed my truck a couple times as well, so something similar should last a VERY long time.

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