Pinckney, MI
Very, very nice color matching and clear coat so far mrm_4! 
(Topic ID: 347486)
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Rollergames
Williams, 1990
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Quoted from Garrett:Very, very nice color matching and clear coat so far mrm_4!
Quoted from PinballMikeD:Your playfield is looking top notch. Very impressive work.
Thanks fellas!
I always think of restorations being 4 main projects:
-Playfield
-Coindoor
-Backbox
-Lower cab
Since I’m kind of stagnant on the playfield I’m moving into the backbox a bit.
Decided to tear it down.
IMG_0082 (resized).jpegIMG_0083 (resized).jpegIMG_0084 (resized).jpegIMG_0087 (resized).jpegIMG_0088 (resized).jpegIMG_0089 (resized).jpegI made a vital mistake this morning 
I nonchalantly carried my wire harnesses from the back box up stairs and started loading them into the dishwasher in front of my wife without thinking…
It went something like this
Me: (whistling “stuck in the middle with you” by stealers wheel loading the top shelf)
Wife: “ummmm wtf are you doing?!!!”
Me: loading the wire harnesses in the dishwasher, what?
Wife: “like hell you are get that junk out of my kitchen!”
Me: “seriously? I’ve done this like 6 times, I learned it from Vid”
Wife: “THEN GO LOAD IT IN VID’S DISHWASHER, GET IT OUT OF HERE!!”
Me: “Vid’s not a real person babe, it’s a community profile that a select group of elite pinball restorers use on rotation to reveal pertinent restoration info to help keep the hobby alive” 
Wife: “Get that out of my dish washer or I’m going to stab you in the thigh…”
So I learned that Spray Way’s All Purpose cleaner is amazing. IMG_0100 (resized).jpeg
The foam just pulls all the grime off everything after it sits for like 2 minutes. Left the pins shiny too. IMG_0099 (resized).jpeg
Did each cluster, then dried them off and heated them up to help dry them out a bit.
Put the labels back on and hung them up.
IMG_0101 (resized).jpegIMG_0102 (resized).jpegIMG_0103 (resized).jpegLooking over the back box going through a plan of attack I noticed this little tab.
I tugged on it and the cab’s decal started pulling up.
IMG_0111 (resized).jpeg
I used my heat gun and stripped this side in like 3 minutes. I didn’t realize these cabs were decals. I thought it was painted on 
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Love the dishwasher story. My wife is very tolerant of the amount of hobby work that goes on in the kitchen. Pinball parts, electronic parts and the best was when my boys and I rebuilt the lower unit to our outboard boat motor on the kitchen table. Ironically, she is very sensitive about the dishwasher. I never washed any harnesses in ours, but I would do it when she isn't home.
Buddy told me a story about redecaling his monster bash... Removed the decals to find it was a factory reused champion pub cabinet and had to remove those as well. Lol
Quoted from mrm_4:Looking over the back box going through a plan of attack I noticed this little tab.
I tugged on it and the cab’s decal started pulling up.
[quoted image]
I used my heat gun and stripped this side in like 3 minutes. I didn’t realize these cabs were decals. I thought it was painted on
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from Mneubey:Looks awesome!! Great job!
Thank you sir! And thanks again for helping me out.
Lately I’ve been watching tons of game play videos of Rollergames to keep myself motivated. One thing that I’ve been obsessing over is the ramp diverter. Just trying to understand the logic and noticing how sloppy it is on so many games.
On mine before I stripped it down it would brick a lot and I just contributed it to an old tired mech that would clean up with the resto.
Well I do not like how the mech pulls the arms. It literally lines them up to the corners
IMG_0119 (resized).jpeg
Any Rollergames fan knows of the diverter bulletin and correction.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2006/SS64.pdf
Part of that update required the coil stop to be replaced with a shorter one. IMG_0137 (resized).jpeg
I found it available from Marco and man what a difference 2mm will make. Now this baby is lined up perfectly. IMG_0138 (resized).jpeg
I bought a Roller Games tonight so that I can play along at home! Keep the pics coming. I’ll go add that coil stop to my list of things to buy now.
My diverter was sloppy as hell until I replaced the linkage and ponied up for the new $15 coil stop from Marco. It's dead on every time now - glad you found the same!
At one point I was also missing the roll pin for the second diverter arm. You wanna talk about an erratic diverter - try playing one where the second arm is only moved by friction on the linkage arm and would usually buckle when the ball hit it!
Unfortunately, I think people at this point have played WAY more Rollergames with crappy diverters than nice diverters.
I evidently don’t know what I’m doing because after my final sand and polish I have had to sand this down and step it up from 1000-2500 5 times and I can’t get rid of these scratches. I don’t understand why this happened and I’ve pretty much burnt through all my clear with how much I’ve been sanding. I’m not interested in finishing this project after all this.
I can’t capture it well in pics but this entire playfield look absolutely horrible.
I’ve tried block sanding and sanding by hand and every time it ends up looking worse than the other time.
IMG_0163 (resized).jpegIMG_0165 (resized).jpegIMG_0166 (resized).jpegIMG_0168 (resized).jpegIMG_0169 (resized).jpegQuoted from mrm_4:I evidently don’t know what I’m doing because after my final sand and polish I have had to sand this down and step it up from 1000-2500 5 times and I can’t get rid of these scratches. I don’t understand why this happened and I’ve pretty much burnt through all my clear with how much I’ve been sanding. I’m not interested in finishing this project after all this.
I can’t capture it well in pics but this entire playfield look absolutely horrible.
I’ve tried block sanding and sanding by hand and every time it ends up looking worse than the other time.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like some grit trapped in your sand paper or if circular the bufffing pad.
What are you buffing with?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Looks like some grit trapped in your sand paper or if circular the bufffing pad.
What are you buffing with?
I sand with a rubber block and wet sand paper and I swear I’m constantly chasing the edge of the sand paper. It’s like every back and forth pass if I go straight or every circular sand leaves its trace and I’m constantly chasing it. Then when I step up I can’t tell if I sanded out the previous papers marks.
I mean it’s bad. Whole playfield looks like this in the right light.
IMG_0172 (resized).jpeg
This is my 4th playfield with SprayMax and sanding and polishing how I’ve always done it and it looks awful.
I’m about to just sand the whole thing with 600 and redo a ton of touch ups and pray I don’t hit my water slide decals or any of the airbrush fades or neon colors. I’ve already burnt through some of the black
IMG_0170 (resized).jpegIMG_0171 (resized).jpegIt’s that block.
No flex in it. Great for a lot of things but not finish work. I machine sand but I know that’s not practical for everyone.
When I water block something I use one of these.
3M 05585
It is rigid to a degree but has reliefs within it to make sure stray grit that gets shed during the sanding process cannot ride the surface of the paper.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgDon’t let that derail you .By the way you are doing a great job you are just doing the best you can with what you have or are used to but sometimes evolving at something requires trying something new.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:One more tip.
Wrap like this. [quoted image][quoted image]
Never sand with the other side without wrapping to eliminate the overlap.
[quoted image]
Might be obvious but just in case I never know what people know or don’t anymore.
That will definitely cut a groove in the surface.
Thanks for all the tips Chris I really appreciate it. I’m just sitting here wondering if I should sand and reclear or just sit on it longer with my buffer…
I’m using a coarse foam pad and that compound and it “slightly” helps but I don’t want to heat up the clear and have a whole new set of issues.
Quoted from mrm_4:Thanks for all the tips Chris I really appreciate it. I’m just sitting here wondering if I should sand and reclear or just sit on it longer with my buffer…
I’m using a coarse foam pad and that compound and it “slightly” helps but I don’t want to heat up the clear and have a whole new set of issues.
The spray can clears do take much longer to fully harden. Curing doesn’t matter here strictly speaking about the hardening process. It’s delayed on anything prepackaged (hardner already in the clear)dry enough to touch? Yeah,assembly?Probably. Flat sand and buff?Unlikely unless it’s been a couple weeks. It’s the nature of that particular beast.
Others may do it and you yourself may have had it go well here and there but generally speaking it’s probably not quite ready yet and the final sanding method needs to be softened as well.
If you are sanding on it too soon your sanding byproducts will much more easily gouge the surface even though they are suspended in water(the benefit of water sanding) a good test is your fingernail in a hidden spot. If it leaves a mark then the sanding process will likely gouge the surface.
If not you should be fine.
This is why I typically machine sand pinball stuff. It is wood it’s flat etc.
Now curved motorcycle parts,cars etc I water block for the best outcomes but it just doesn’t carryover into pinball for a variety of reasons but I do understand that is a practice that is commonly preached.
Quoted from Garrett:Looks as smooth as a babies butt too!
A bunch of trash floated into it like always. It’ll need sanded and polished again but I’m waiting until next month to do that piece
Quoted from mrm_4:A bunch of trash floated into it like always. It’ll need sanded and polished again but I’m waiting until next month to do that piece
It’s never too late to buy a festool sander and vac system.
1 week later
Found this via Bord's new resto. DANG! this turned out so awesome!!
1. Nice work!
2. It was fun to just read through the whole process in one shot.
3. RG is on my want list someday.
4. Love the airbrush color fade you did. *noted for future 
5. How did you remake the stickers for the ramp?
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:Found this via Bord's new resto. DANG! this turned out so awesome!!
1. Nice work!
2. It was fun to just read through the whole process in one shot.
3. RG is on my want list someday.
4. Love the airbrush color fade you did. *noted for future
5. How did you remake the stickers for the ramp?
Thanks man! I still need to do a final sand and polish on the playfield. I’ve began sanding and Bondoing the backbox. More to come on that.
As for the underside decals I just froze them off like you do mylar and cleaned them up. Then applied them to the new ramp with double sided decal adhesive.
For the topside a friend had recreated them in Inkscape and I made some adjustments myself. I print them on photo paper, add mylar to the top, double sided adhesive to the bottom and it’s a new decal.
I wanted to share the files but PPS would throw a fit.
Interested to see your experience with the cabinet. Working on my first one too and getting close to the bondo stage.
ManbearpigOG you should check out mrm_4's other restorations if you haven't already. And A_Bords Moulin Rouge is amazin as well.
Quoted from mrm_4:For the topside a friend had recreated them in Inkscape and I made some adjustments myself. I print them on photo paper, add mylar to the top, double sided adhesive to the bottom and it’s a new decal.
Brilliant!
Quoted from Garrett:you should check out mrm_4's other restorations
Oh yes. the Space Mission was on my favorited list when researching how to restore the Flip Flop. And the Mata Hari with the amazing paint job.
Quoted from Garrett:Interested to see your experience with the cabinet. Working on my first one too and getting close to the bondo stage.
ManbearpigOG you should check out mrm_4's other restorations if you haven't already. And A_Bords Moulin Rouge is amazin as well.
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:Brilliant!
Oh yes. the Space Mission was on my favorited list when researching how to restore the Flip Flop. And the Mata Hari with the amazing paint job.
Thanks guys! 
Quoted from mrm_4:I got a new toy today. I sent this picture to my wife and said “Now I can clear coat in the KITCHEN!!!”
[quoted image]
But, only while you’re washing playfield harnesses in the dishwasher.
I had planned on setting up my paint tent and laying down some primer on the back box but the wind today wrecked that idea so I bit the bullet and did the final attack on the playfield polishing.
I figured I might as well clean up and drill out all the holes before I do the final sanding so I used this cone looking dentist tool in my rotary and made a ton of tapered pits
IMG_0260 (resized).jpeg
Once that was finished I sanded the whole thing with my new SOFT sanding block. The one Chris suggested apparently is not made anymore. I tried like 2000 sites (Amazon and Google) and no one has them.
IMG_0264 (resized).jpeg
After that I polished with the same stuff as before and dangggggg that’s so much better!
IMG_0261 (resized).jpegIMG_0262 (resized).jpeg
I celebrated for about 40 seconds before I remembered this could all be for nothing…
I need to drive in the nails for the pop bumpers
IMG_0263 (resized).jpeg
Success!
FYI - If you’re looking for a nice sanding block, you should checkout “Time Shaver Tools.”
The locking clips make it easy to attach/remove your paper.
IMG_4935 (resized).jpeg
IMG_4936 (resized).jpeg
It’s ergonomic and easy to work with. I’ve owned a bunch of sanding blocks and this one is by far my favorite.
Quoted from PinballMikeD:FYI - If you’re looking for a nice sanding block, you should checkout “Time Shaver Tools.”
[quoted image]
The locking clips make it easy to attach/remove your paper.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
It’s ergonomic and easy to work with. I’ve owned a bunch of sanding blocks and this one is by far my favorite.
Nice! I’ll try one for sure thanks man!
1 week later
The last few weeks have sucked when it comes to progress on this game. I’ve been chipping away little by little at the back box.
Before I sanded it down I took some pics and measurements of the back to try and recreate the text. I’m going to make a stencil with the cameo 4. I think it might work. IMG_0218 (resized).jpegIMG_0219 (resized).jpegIMG_0220 (resized).jpeg
Sanding this thing sucked so bad. All the adhesive from the original decals would not come up. Just smeared around and made a mess. Ended up having to spread citrus strip on it.
IMG_0231 (resized).jpegIMG_0230 (resized).jpeg
After sanding I tried to Bondo it but the kit I have is like 5 years old and doesn’t spread well at all. I’d like to get some 3M 01171 but I can’t find anyone that carries it.
I want something thin and creamy that’ll spread easily but I have no clue what to get from autozone or Ace.
IMG_0236 (resized).jpegIMG_0246 (resized).jpeg
I painted the top and didn’t like it. Looks like garbage plus I keep watching all these darn High_End_Pins pin videos and it makes me want to burn all my projects.
IMG_0286 (resized).jpeg
So I sanded it down and tried to fill more with wood filler.
Didn’t work very well.
So I drenched it in 2 in 1 primer filler and sanded it.
Still not happy with it.
IMG_0297 (resized).jpegIMG_0298 (resized).jpeg
I’m sick of this back box so before throw it on the burn pile I moved to a few random things to make me feel better like painting carriage bolts. I put them in the drill to sand the rust off
IMG_0288 (resized).jpegIMG_0289 (resized).jpeg
Then stand them up in cardboard and hit them with lacquer.
IMG_0290 (resized).jpeg
I’m up grading the speakers and the one that replaces the tweeter was slightly too large so I made my own version of a spacer
IMG_0258 (resized).jpeg
Spray painted the panel and the trim with gloss black and put the plastic panel back on with carpet tape
IMG_0300 (resized).jpegIMG_0299 (resized).jpeg
Today I saw a new line of semi-gloss paints from rustoleum while at the store so I grabbed a can. I’ve always used gloss but since I’m using these decals I’ve been dreading the issue of the sheen difference. This semi gloss is almost a dead on sheen match to the decal! I’m excited about that!
More to come with painting the back box once I’m either sick of messing with it get lucky and it turns out ok with the next round of painting
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