(Topic ID: 347486)

Don’t Flip… FLIP! - Rollergames Restoration

By mrm_4

6 months ago


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Garrett.
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#18 5 months ago

I'm a bit in awe of how much was on the top and bottom of that playfield.

All the stuff on the top of the playfield was pretty insane in itself.

#32 5 months ago

Agreed, the decals aren't quite as crisp and the decal colors are more than just a bit off from the original.

And if you have to be that close to see that it was touched up most people won't even notice when playing the game.

Is that the worst case decal or are some too far gone to touch up with paint?

#34 5 months ago

I’d keep at it painting, they look good.

If you have any extra insert put the decal on it of the worst paint job. Backlight it and see what you think of the painted vs decal.

Once cleared decision is final as you know.

#37 5 months ago

I think you did a really nice job.

#41 5 months ago

From the pictures they look great especially considering how small the details are.

If you have to get that close to see imperfections at 2-3 feet no-one would notice a thing.

#53 5 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I’m working through my plan of attack for painting some of it will get airbrushed some of it will be painted by hand.
One thing I’m wondering is when I touch up the gray and have to fade in the black at the bottom. Would the game look cooler with just a solid black background behind the ladies, under the yellow/red strip and lower?
I tinkered around in Inkscape to see. I’ll revisit this later on….
Original
[quoted image]
Proposed look[quoted image]

The all black.

It brings out the graphics in the area of interest and gives it more depth.

Not a big fan of the exaggerated dot matrix look.

#60 5 months ago

Nice color transition!!! The fade looks like it belongs there. Looks factory.

Don't you think the sprayed paint looks better than the dot matrix fade?

Keep this shit up and that thing is going to look sweet when it's done.

#66 5 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Actually yeah but only on my white paint for some reason. Not anywhere else. What do you do to get rid of it?
I’m afraid it’ll mess up my clear coat and cause fisheye and adhesion issues…

A_Bord

I thought you used a lot of frisket on your MR restoration? Did you also have residual glue issues?

#71 5 months ago

Well done!

Do you use Createx paints for air brushing?

#73 5 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Yes and no. I don’t limit myself to it. I’ll shoot anything that’s acrylic and matches straight out of the bottle, without mixing to color match.
Here’s my line up for this project so far. The trick is the 4012. The craft paints like Americana need almost a 2 to 1 ratio 2 part paint 1 part dilution. Then I add more of one or the other depending on if and how it sprays. Some people use just straight water.
I mix in the 4012 and paint then let it sit a couple of minutes so it can attack the paint then stir as I go with a toothpick. The Americanas will dry quick so I’m constantly wiping the tip of the needle.
[quoted image]

Same mix of paints here too, Createx and Art Deco stuff.

There are a few people on Pinside who suggested using Golden acrylic paints. It is very thin compared to Createx and ready to shoot right out of the bottle. I tried it but found the colors seperated extremely quickly when. And that paint aint cheap either, so really disappointed. Should have sprayed it to see if it also seprerates when using it through the air brush but got pissed and just dumped the color that I'd mixed. Just my experience so I wouldn't recommend Golden acrylic paint.

Assuming the playfield has beem thoroughly cleaned with ME to knowck off all the loose paint. Can frisket still lift the original playfield paint or any areas you may have touched up with acrylic paint?

That playfield is gonna pop when you hit the reds. And bless you for getting rid of the dot marix fade, looks so much better

1 week later
#83 5 months ago

Was the paint loss on the playfield a result of removing the Mylar?

#87 5 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

No that was from wear at the ramp’s ball drop. There was no paint loss from freezing off the mylar. I was surprised how smooth that part went for me.

Should have looked back at page one of this thread. Wasn't sure if all System 11 games had mylar over the entire playfield or just some of them. I see yours did not.

Just trying to get a full picture of what you have to deal with on SS playfields vs EM's. Had seen a post on Pinside about losing a lot of paint when trying to remove the mylar that covers the full playfield. Also thinking about doing some spray testing with Diamond Max as I don't have the set up for two part clear.

I'd be frustrated too with all the frisket cutting and then having to retouch for paint bleed. But so far it's looking really good.

#93 5 months ago

That looks nice!

Does it come with software?

#97 5 months ago

The stock vinyl adheres well enough to prevent any bleed through, very nice indeed! Does it also leave residual glue like frisket?

You might as well be a saleman for them, Amazon has them for $199 until Jan 4th. Very tempting after seeing your result mrm_4.

I'd prefer paint over a waterslide when possible.

3 weeks later
#109 4 months ago

Looks excellent.

1 month later
#124 3 months ago

With this crazy weather you may get to spaying way earlier than usual.

That was an amazing test of your level of patience. Impressive!

Very nice result. Can't wait to see it with clear, eye poppin' color explosion.

1 week later
#130 81 days ago

I feel for you with all the work and time you have in it so far.

Ok, so how do you recover?

#141 78 days ago

No one would ever know. Nice!

#146 76 days ago

Sharp looking.

#151 75 days ago

Very, very nice color matching and clear coat so far mrm_4!

 

2 weeks later
#173 60 days ago

Please don’t give up on this. Your touch ups look fantastic under the clear coat.

#178 60 days ago

I've been doing it wrong. Thank you Chris.

1 week later
#183 53 days ago

Looks as smooth as a babies butt too!

1 week later
#188 44 days ago

Interested to see your experience with the cabinet. Working on my first one too and getting close to the bondo stage.

ManbearpigOG you should check out mrm_4's other restorations if you haven't already. And A_Bords Moulin Rouge is amazin as well.

1 week later
#200 32 days ago

I laughed, what Chris does in a day and at that level of quality is just ridiculous.

Give yourself a break. He’s also got a lot of experience under his belt.

Your quality level is high MRM_4. Better with each restoration.

I’m watching what you’re doing, starting my first cabinet.

#210 27 days ago

It looks good. What paint are you using?

1 week later
#214 17 days ago

Dam, that came out nice!

#223 16 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Yeah the weeding was the worst part. I’m just trying to determine if I should clear it or just leave it be and move on to the decals.

Do you want to invest the time and materials into clearing the cab?

Is it a pin you plan to keep as part of your long term collection or will you let it go one day?

How many pins do you actually have the room for?

The playfield looks great so far and your typical restoration of mechs is always top notch, as those buffed rails clearly show.

Imagine it's some time next year and you have played a couple hundred games on Rollergames. You then look down at the cabinet.

Would you say "I'm glad I..." or "I should have.."?

#225 15 days ago

Result looks super smooth!

#240 11 days ago

How do you get your custom labels to lay so flat? Light adhesive on the back or a heavier paper?

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