The machine played fine before I started making it better. Seems like the old sockets won’t be the issue.

Installed new lamp sockets here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/doodle-bug-restoration/page/2#post-7647936

One of these (or both) are causing the fuse to blow. What'd I do wrong? Two simple flashlight bulbs wired in parallel. What could possibly go wrong ?

Cut the yellow wires and now the fuse doesn't blow.

Only one side does it. New socket on that side must be bad.

There you go!

IMG_0428 (resized).jpeg

The lower yellow pop is sticking bad. It's not the pop or pop switches. Need to track down the relay.

Then its all tuned up and ready to rock.

The score reels still need to be cleaned up bright and shiny. The credit step unit needs to be degunked. The game plays, so this is not strictly necessary, but I like to see the credits advance when I get a free game.

I'll fix that lamp socket this afternoon and post a pic with the lights on and new rubbers.

Garrett Do you know the specs on the wood screws typically used to secure pops and other parts to under the pf? Also, the little machine screws that have a star washer on them, typically fastening coil stops and the coil brackets?

I'd like to order a bunch of these to have on hand, but I don't know what to look for.

mike

The wood screws on Doodle Bug are straight, not the tapered ones at Home Depo. Also, they have a cut at the point to make them self tapping, but not like the self tapping ones at HD, on which the threads don’t start until after the tap part.

I’ll look at Elliot’s, a local specialty hardware store.

Not sure it has the right plunger- tip barely extends the apron .

Doodler was real weak, now it doesn’t have the energy to move. Will check / clean the relays later this weekend.

Doodler is working fine. Was the switch under the unit. Cleaned the RO button.

Clouded up the plastic over the doodle channel with Novus 2.

Gonna have to get out the wet dry sand paper. Hope I don’t have to buy new plastics.

Also, spent unnecessary time figuring out non-existent problem with the doodler - if the ball is in place at the plunger, the doodler turns off. 'Doh !

If anyone has the score card files, please send. All I can find are photos of score cards.

Finally played some good games!

Some inserts could be raised. I’m on the fence about it.

The doodler button still sticks very occasionally . Maybe the plastic button is worn and bending. Cleaned the hole, etc. I try not to lube much, but maybe some Teflon bike lube.

Will check to see if that is a standard rollover button.

Set it to three balls. Scoring way too high on 5. Wasn’t five still the norm in 1971?

That's what I’m thinking, too. Only solution is to raise the back legs more.

Need to fill this groove or sand it out. Even with the slope raised, the ball still hangs.

IMG_0444 (resized).jpeg

Nicely tuned pop bumpers.

A good set of pops is the essence of pinball.

Chime sounds good now. Plunger was missing its nylon tip. Made do with a piece of a pencil for now.

Knocker not firing. Tracking it down.

Knocker is now knocking. Normally closed switch on the coin door was wide open.

Tonight I’m polishing the lockdown bar. Doing it by hand because I don’t want this one to be my practice on polishing wheels.

Thank you.

Image (resized).jpeg

Thank you. It took about two hours. Maybe two and a half. Put on some good music.

I tested out how well 800 grit wet dry removed the scratches, ended up starting at 600. Soak the sandpaper in a small tub of warm water with a drop of dish soap. It breaks the surface tension of the water so the sandpaper gets wetter faster. So, hand sanded some with a cork block, but mostly by hand because of the rounded edges.

Sand in a circular motion, except at the early stages when you go every direction to work out scratches, finishing circular. Did 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000. Rinse the piece before going to the next level. At about 1200, go easier. At that point you aren’t sanding any more, you're polishing. After the last stage, rinse & dry, then polish with Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish & soft cotton rag. Then buff with a clean rag.

For small bolts, like around the coin doors, I don’t use sandpaper unless the bolt head really needs it. Usually Mother's Mag and a polishing wheel on the Dremel will do it, then buff with clean rag.

You can get the sandpapers you need between Home Depot & Harbor Freight, except the 4000 I had to get off Amazon.

I still need to do the rails. Just going to polish with Mother's Mag.

dr_nybble I used to stop at 3000, because that's as high as Home Depot goes. A friend who polishes knives told me about the 4000 . I’ve just started using it on Doodle Bug. Big difference. Seek Ye some 4000 next time you're polishing.

How does the orbital work on thin pieces like the door frame?

The light shined through this guy's hair into the player's eyes, so I touched it up.

Got the color very close, but acrylic paint is thicker than the silk screen ink, so less light comes through. It looks darker. Might paint white behind the whole area so it becomes uniformly darker.

Before IMG_0555 (resized).jpegafterIMG_0567 (resized).jpeg

Sanded & clear coated the saucer. Looks much better.

71414512077__5F04A7D5-17A7-4D2A-AE1D-BCF0B7A4F219 (resized).jpeg

Using clear coat to raise the bed the center plastic sits in. Taking several layers. Clear epoxy would have been a better option, but didn’t think about it until now.

71397522540__72C76731-538E-41C0-97F4-66B74A166FF2 (resized).jpeg

I’m calling it finished!

Will post a game play video when I can.

Many targets are not ringing a bell. Unlit pops. 1-2-3-4, down post buttons...

Should they?

Update: the chime unit king of grunts when activated. Plunger doesn’t move. It’s a new plunger. Bad coil?

I’m generally against LEDs on EMs, but this is fun!

IMG_1122 (resized).jpeg