(Topic ID: 340106)

Flip Flops falling out of the sky - First pin, first resto - ***COMPLETE ***

By ManbearpigOG

10 months ago


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  • 20 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 57 days ago by Spunky1562
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There are 209 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.
#1 10 months ago

It seems like when you buy a car you think you rarely see on the road and then, BAM they are everywhere. That's how I feel about my first pin purchase.

My journey has been watching Facebook groups for well over a year now and in that year I moved from MN to GA, so even though I was shopping in MN, I knew I couldn't buy till after the move. It's sad too cause along the GA coast it's like a pinball dead zone (I'll make it to Brunswick someday to play). Everything I have found that I felt was a reasonable drive get scooped up so fast. Well last week was my week!

Just a little 6 hour round trip for a top 100 EM. I knew the first one would be either and EM or SS in which I would need to work on and learn. The theme isn't my first choice, but the PF is pretty cool and the the price was good.

So when I got there I knew there was no keys and the back box was off, so I stuck my face in the hole and didn't smell any signs of mouse so I was like, "I'll take it". Took off the legs, loaded it up, and drove home. It was late so I left it in the car until morning and then extracted and put the legs back on. The I seen the droppings in the car, oof, gross. Busted out the drill to knock the locks out and what a yummy surprise. The guy originally told me he had it for 8 years and never got around to it, but yet the rubber kit and lights were brand new. Plus I had already messaged the "original" owner a moth prior trying to buy it when it was only $400 . I'm almost 100% that he lied about not having a key, cause he didn't think he could sell it with all the mouse leavin's in there.

So I grabbed some gloves, alcohol (to spray not drink), and a shop vac. Then once that was done and I put it away for the evening I was trying to find info on mouse clean up, but really no luck on one specific chemical to neutralize. Then I started reading about the hantavirus and went "oh crap" I should have been way more cautious, so if in 8 weeks or so this thread never goes anywhere, it was death by Flip Flop!

****************************

Anyway the PF was in great shape and the BG is also just amazing, Must have had a good paint set up for this table, cause everyone I see still looks really good.
Got on Marco, Pinball Life, and Amazon and ordered everything I should need to get it back to flippin'.
My hope is that after cleaning and adjusting everything works. Can't let the first one be a money pit, otherwise the wife wont allow more.
I have to renovate my shed (yup have to work in the shed), so there is adequate room to pull out the guts and remount on clean wood. And I'll need space to clean all the parts and start adjusting.

Hey phylaxis , we can maybe work together on out machines even though you have a head start.
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#2 10 months ago

That transformer looks a little rough. They don’t tend to go bad but if it’s been chewed on, you will need to test the outputs. If ends up testing bad, I have one out of an Aladdin’s Castle I will offer to send you for the cost of shipping. Welcome to the hobby!

#3 10 months ago

I think your playfield is in a little better shape than mine. Nice find. Those lower mechs though… looks like that mouse made himself comfortable. Good luck and we can for sure share notes.

#4 10 months ago

The playfield is in really good condition.

Always make sure you have a drill with you along with your tools. I never buy a pin unless I can see that no mechs are missing in the cabinet or backbox.

It's good the mouse nest was in the lower cab and not ON the playfeild. Evaporust or similar is a must have product.

You'll have to go through all the lower cab wiring to make sure they didn't chew on the wiring insulation, the cloth makes such nice bedding.

That's the great thing about EM's, with some effort and elbow grease they will run once again. Good luck!

#5 10 months ago

So lucky man, perfect playfield! And I would love to restore that whole mech board, the before and after pics would be orgasmic on that piece alone!!! This is going to be a great project for you! Congrats on the find.

#6 10 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

So lucky man, perfect playfield! And I would love to restore that whole mech board, the before and after pics would be orgasmic on that piece alone!!! This is going to be a great project for you! Congrats on the find.

Been a while since you restored one....getting the itch again?

#7 10 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Been a while since you restored one....getting the itch again?

Yeah the addiction is real! Gonna be a solid state next, have a Space Shuttle in the wings from a friend, just gotta make the transaction happen.

#8 10 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

That transformer looks a little rough. They don’t tend to go bad but if it’s been chewed on, you will need to test the outputs. If ends up testing bad, I have one out of an Aladdin’s Castle I will offer to send you for the cost of shipping. Welcome to the hobby!

Awesome! I thought it looked a little rough. It may be a while before I can test. Everything I've read so far said "Do not turn on the machine" until you go through the whole thing. Unless I can test without power? I was trying to do the ohm test on the coils the other night and they numbers were all over, so not sure if they are good or not.

#9 10 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

So lucky man, perfect playfield! And I would love to restore that whole mech board, the before and after pics would be orgasmic on that piece alone!!! This is going to be a great project for you! Congrats on the find.

Originally I was afraid to remove it (first pin jitters), but after watching a bunch of videos I plan to pull it and cut all new wood. The bottom of the cab has a 8" or so hole as well, so I'll have to figure out how to replace that as well. Butt all new wood should help remove some of the nastyness.

And I'll do my best to make it look real good again.

#10 10 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

Originally I was afraid to remove it (first pin jitters), but after watching a bunch of videos I plan to pull it and cut all new wood. The bottom of the cab has a 8" or so hole as well, so I'll have to figure out how to replace that as well. Butt all new wood should help remove some of the nastyness.
And I'll do my best to make it look real good again.

Just remember to have fun and take your time. Everything on that board can be completely dismantled and put back together. It may be overwhelming but youll soon come to crave that feeling.

#11 10 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

The playfield is in really good condition.
Always make sure you have a drill with you along with your tools. I never buy a pin unless I can see that no mechs are missing in the cabinet or backbox.
It's good the mouse nest was in the lower cab and not ON the playfeild. Evaporust or similar is a must have product.
You'll have to go through all the lower cab wiring to make sure they didn't chew on the wiring insulation, the cloth makes such nice bedding.
That's the great thing about EM's, with some effort and elbow grease they will run once again. Good luck!

I've read about the Evaporust, but haven't been to the store yet to find it. I saw the video of the person the basically washed out the bottom of an old pin and hosed it off. I am not doing that, but is there something I can manually use on the leaf switchs and solenoids to clean them up without damage?

Also I see "ME" and "Naptha" in a lot of posts. What are they and are they just cleaners?.... if you know.

#12 10 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

I've read about the Evaporust, but haven't been to the store yet to find it. I saw the video of the person the basically washed out the bottom of an old pin and hosed it off. I am not doing that, but is there something I can manually use on the leaf switchs and solenoids to clean them up without damage?
Also I see "ME" and "Naptha" in a lot of posts. What are they and are they just cleaners?.... if you know.

ME and naphtha will remove ground in dirt and ball swirls.

It will also remove the remaining protective lacquer.

A clear coat is preferred when going the ME route.

#14 10 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

ME and naphtha will remove ground in dirt and ball swirls.
It will also remove the remaining protective lacquer.
A clear coat is preferred when going the ME route.

But what is ME?

The only thing I can get out of Google is "methyl group", but not what the actual chemical is.
I have not been able to figure it out looking at all the forum posts either. No one ever uses the full name

#15 10 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

But what is ME?
The only thing I can get out of Google is "methyl group", but not what the actual chemical is.
I have not been able to figure it out looking at all the forum posts either. No one ever uses the full name

Magic Eraser

#17 10 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Magic Eraser

Lol. That I have seem a thousand times, oof

#18 10 months ago

Spent some time going though this yesterday. Crazy amount of info here!

#19 10 months ago

Another pinsider is going through a similarly nested Bally EM for the first time now too: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/barn-find-pick-up-advice

#20 10 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Another pinsider is going through a similarly nested Bally EM for the first time now too: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/barn-find-pick-up-advice

Man, he had made some awesome progress. Thank you for sharing this. It will help for sure in what I need to do.

#21 10 months ago

That looks familiar. My CF is rough like that. Look forward to watching your progress.

#22 10 months ago

Playfield and backglass look decent!

#23 10 months ago

A title I have always wanted, if you ever find another one in that good of shape, let me know!

#24 10 months ago

Someone came to me a year or two ago with three copies of "Flip Flop", all in dire need of service.
One of them looked like it was salvaged from the Titanic, and it was barely good for a few parts.
Between all of them, I made one pretty decent one, and one fair, somewhat playable copy.
I see you have the dangling coils with the broken off screws. I had several of those as well. I was able to work the broken off screw out of most of the coils, saving me from having to replace them.
"Flip Flop" is one of those Bally machines which always seems to have a good backglass. It's a very busy, but attractive piece of pinball art.

#25 10 months ago
Quoted from ibis:

A title I have always wanted, if you ever find another one in that good of shape, let me know!

There's 2 on Facepage (Charlotte, NC and Edinboro, Pa) if you're up for a drive. The one is an early run with the yellow metal back and green flips up in the barn. Not sure if thats more desirable or not. And 1 on here in NY.

Where you are there was a Knock Out close I wanted, but the drive was too far.

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#26 10 months ago

You sound like a Bally fan ManbearpigOG.

#27 10 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

You sound like a Bally fan ManbearpigOG.

Honestly I like a lot of Gottlieb's for the art (there was a Paradise for $800 but 2" flipper and a 10hr round trip). My biggest passion around this hobby is the art (no pokey people ). I like the new machines and they are fun to play, but I've really taken a liking to the EMs and SS because they are actually quite challenging. I'm not a giant score maker, just love the art and to flip.
I'm also a hands on type of person that loves to create and fix. Learning to fix things has saved me lots of money in my life.

#28 10 months ago

Gottlieb had some of the best artists such as Roy Parker and Gordon Morison. Gordon is my favorite out of them all. I think all the Gottliebs I owned were Gordon art packages. Had a Gottlieb Majaestic woodrail with Roy's work, woodrails are just beautiful to start with.

Then we have Dave's Christensen's work for Bally, killer art as well.

I'm with ya on the pointy poeple. Not the biggest fan but the gameplay makes up for it on some titles. Some.

I'm an all EM guy. I love the quick games, easy to understand rules and challenging gameplay. EM's were designed to take your money pretty quick. I've played early SS to the more modern pins, just not for me.

#29 10 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Gottlieb had some of the best artists such as Roy Parker and Gordon Morison. Gordon is my favorite out of them all. I think all the Gottliebs I owned were Gordon art packages. Had a Gottlieb Majaestic woodrail with Roy's work, woodrails are just beautiful to start with.
Then we have Dave's Christensen's work for Bally, killer art as well.
I'm with ya on the pointy poeple. Not the biggest fan but the gameplay makes up for it on some titles. Some.
I'm an all EM guy. I love the quick games, easy to understand rules and challenging gameplay. EM's were designed to take your money pretty quick. I've played early SS to the more modern pins, just not for me.

None of those artists worked for Gottlieb, or any other pinball manufacturer. They worked for graphics companies, such as Ad Posters and Reproduction Graphics. Some of these guys did illustrations on all kinds of items, such as calendars and road maps. The pinball companies commissioned them to do the art for the games. I imagine the pinball industry kept these guys quite busy!

2 weeks later
#30 9 months ago

Finally had a few evening in the last week to make my once packed full of crap shed into a little workshop. I think it’ll work fine for my first restore cause it’ll keep any chemical smells out of the house/garage. No room for a custom rotisserie so I’ll probably just make a brace on the work bench.

I’m getting so antsy to jump in I had to do a little ME/alcohol test on the back box. Of course I got it once and went, “crap take pictures”! So just did a small patch until the ME was slimy then wiped it down with the Naptha. OMG I’m even more excited to get into this thing. Unfortunately I’m going to start with the bottom board mess, so the exciting cleaning is going to be on the back burner.

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#31 9 months ago

I got a suggestion from a fellow Pinsider to use Sprayway Crazy Clean to get rid of nicotine on cabinets. Worked great for that, but Ive also had good success with using it against normal cabinet grime. Spray it on in sections, let it sit for a minute until it starts running, then wipe it up. Don't let it sit for too long else it will start taking up the paint, and it tends to exacerbate sections where paint is already weak/missing. As for playfield, I recommend Novus 2 and CP100 together. You can use a ME without much damage to the remaining top coat. Otherwise use a terry towel with lots of elbow grease, then buff it out with a microfiber towel. That playfield looks like it will clean up really well.

You've got solid bones to your project in terms of cabinet, backglass and playfield. The inside is another story . Flip Flop is a great game and worthy of a restore

#32 9 months ago

This morning I was able to cut a new mech board and the riser boards on the sides. Thought it would be fun to paint it to match the cab design. Lining up my mask didn’t pan out real well and I missed the black in one start, but most of it’s covered up anyways.

Next up will be removing and cleaning all the mechs….. scary.

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#33 9 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

This morning I was able to cut a new mech board and the riser boards on the sides. Thought it would be fun to paint it to match the cab design. Lining up my mask didn’t pan out real well and I missed the black in one start, but most of it’s covered up anyways.
Next up will be removing and cleaning all the mechs….. scary.
[quoted image]

I like the idea and the result for this title.

I'm not a purist and small things like this add character relative to the person doing the work. Consider that your "stamp" if you restore more pins in the future.

#34 9 months ago

After messaging mrm_4 for some reassurance today I grabbed the Zep citrus cleaner, a spray bottle, a bowl, and a cut down paint brush (saw this method in a video somewhere) and started cleaning. I’ve had a little phobia and just gross feeling touching the mech board after reading about mice.
Unfortunately I was not quick enough after work to have any real sunlight left to help dry it out. So then I bright it back to the work space and decided to at least loosen all the screws with the fan on it. While hovering I could just smell the nasty nasty wood so….. full removal happened today (hope I took enough pictures).
Even just brushing it down with the citrus cleaner made a huge difference. The coin mech and the ball count actually can move and reset, but for sure need more love. Left the original board outside to dry so I can use it for measuring and possible salvage the T nuts off the bottom.

Added a little triple pic of pickup day, semi clean, and much cleaner. So gross.

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#35 9 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

After messaging mrm_4 for some reassurance today I grabbed the Zep citrus cleaner, a spray bottle, a bowl, and a cut down paint brush (saw this method in a video somewhere) and started cleaning. I’ve had a little phobia and just gross feeling touching the mech board after reading about mice.
Unfortunately I was not quick enough after work to have any real sunlight left to help dry it out. So then I bright it back to the work space and decided to at least loosen all the screws with the fan on it. While hovering I could just smell the nasty nasty wood so….. full removal happened today (hope I took enough pictures).
Even just brushing it down with the citrus cleaner made a huge difference. The coin mech and the ball count actually can move and reset, but for sure need more love. Left the original board outside to dry so I can use it for measuring and possible salvage the T nuts off the bottom.
Added a little triple pic of pickup day, semi clean, and much cleaner. So gross.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

One day I'll get the courage to do hose down the bottom board as well.

It is a freaky thought to me as well...just freaky.

Those lower board mechs cleaned up great!!!

You do realize that your new found addiction is about to take over. How much space do you have for a pin collection? Tolerant wife? Pins do tend to multiply like rabbits...

And remember, we all have those "awww shit" and "why the fuck did I do that" moments. Pretty much anything can be fixed or re-worked so no worries. On my third playfield restore and still have not got everything "perfect". And that is to be expected. Perfection does not exists.

Keep up the great work. Flip Flop is a good playing pin and yours will look great when your done. That pin was in some rough ass shape when you picked it up.

#36 9 months ago
Quoted from Garrett:

You do realize that your new found addiction is about to take over. How much space do you have for a pin collection? Tolerant wife? Pins do tend to multiply like rabbits...

The worst part is the ADHD (if you want to call it that) cause I am the type of person to continually think about "what's next, what can I do today?" and then I wake up at 4am and lay in bed with my mind racing.
I think having a really cool project is the addiction part. And even though I finally scored a machine, I still look on facepage everyday. I think the wife knows that there will be more.
In the future I plan on building an extra stall and a half for our classic car, then the main 2 stall (connected to the house) will have room for the rabbits to grow

I was already out looking over the mechs this morning and trying to decide how I want to tackle all the metal on the coils. Probably best to do a full tear down and use the Evaporust I bought. It'll probably be easier to clean all the contacts as well with it fully disassembled.
I haven't searched yet, but is there a database anywhere on here with all the "correct" screw/bolt/nut/washer sizes? I need to replace a lot and thought why not just get all new.

#37 9 months ago

If you're in bed thinking about the stuff you're going to next on your project.....then you got the bug! Enjoy, its a fun ride!

#38 9 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

The worst part is the ADHD (if you want to call it that) cause I am the type of person to continually think about "what's next, what can I do today?" and then I wake up at 4am and lay in bed with my mind racing.
I think having a really cool project is the addiction part. And even though I finally scored a machine, I still look on facepage everyday. I think the wife knows that there will be more.
In the future I plan on building an extra stall and a half for our classic car, then the main 2 stall (connected to the house) will have room for the rabbits to grow
I was already out looking over the mechs this morning and trying to decide how I want to tackle all the metal on the coils. Probably best to do a full tear down and use the Evaporust I bought. It'll probably be easier to clean all the contacts as well with it fully disassembled.
I haven't searched yet, but is there a database anywhere on here with all the "correct" screw/bolt/nut/washer sizes? I need to replace a lot and thought why not just get all new.

You are Screwed Checklist
1. Looks on FB every day for the next pin
2. Wife looking at you with sideways glances and some confusion
3. ADHD personality
4. Where can I put more pins?
5. What's next?

It was kinda of evident from watching this thread that you appeared to "fit the mold", the tell was when you built your well organized repair area.

The end result of your restoration is a reflection of your ADHD level.

There are so many great restorations and re-themes you can find on Pinside. The outstanding work posted by the members on this site inspires me to do a better job with each new restoration attempt. And mrm_4 is always happy to help when you have a question. His work inspires me to crank up my ADHD a few notches. He answered plenty of questions with my first attempt as well.

Evapo is the easiest route to go on the rust. That stuff works great but also can lead to discoloration that can occur during long soaks. Not to worry, Brasso or Mothers Mag polish will usually remove it easily. Harbor Freight is a good place to get Evapo cheaper than most other retailers. Re-usable, just starin out the wierd goo stuff once in a while. If you want to do legs people use a 4" or so diameter pvc pipe 3 feet long with and end sealed to dip the entire leg. You can get new chrome legs shipped for under $100 or just paint the old ones.

Lock down bars are usually pretty eaten up with rust. Clear coat will prevent them from rusting up again.

Many of the screws are a #6 3/8" I believe. Home Depot and most small hardware stores will have all the common hardware if one is close by.

#39 9 months ago

Well, we have a nice garage set up but I'm not allowed to add anything..... yet. I have a full sized VPin and tool chest, but she has her own work bench and cabinet for her Etsy store. And until I get a proper lanai built the golf cart and the grill live in the garage.

I did buy the Evaporust at HB, since that was the only place I could find it. But then I was able to give them more money foe other tools as well. I was also wondering about the re-use, which I had planed on trying anyway.
I was thinking of having the legs powder coated, that's what I did for my VPin (orignal Centaur legs). They came factory grey colored so I'll check on cost down here. Where I used to live I got my side rails, lock down and legs all done for $75 which I thought was good.
I thought the lock down was stainless on pinball machines, cant I just steel wool and wipe polish on it? I clear coated my original VPin one and it started to wear off, that was pre powder coating.
As for screws/bolts, the coil ones seem to be brass with a super thin brass washer (probably why some are broken). Is there a reason for that if you know?

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#40 9 months ago

Bally used the brass sleeves in the rubber grommets. It helps prevent someone from over tightening the screws in the mechs and wrecking the grommets. You don't need them as Gottlieb and William's didn't always use them. But it is a good idea.

Not measured and sourced any yet.
https://www.google.com/search?q=bally+brass+sleeves+for+grommets&rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS819US819&oq=bally+brass+sleeves+for+grommets&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160.423909043j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#ip=1

The only stainless is usually the side rails and that's a 400 series. Some coin doors are also stainless. Everything else is typically plated.

#41 9 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

As for screws/bolts, the coil ones seem to be brass with a super thin brass washer (probably why some are broken). Is there a reason for that if you know?

A while back, I did a "Flip Flop" for someone.
I had several broken off screws in the coils as well.
You MUST use brass screws and you must install the brass insulating washer between the coil and it's bracket. Luckily, I had two other games, one of which was only suitable as a parts donor.
I put a tiny dab of oil on the screw threads to keep them free for future disassembly. The screws are easy to break off, because they tend to seize due to corrosion because of the two dissimilar metals.

#42 9 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

I thought the lock down was stainless on pinball machines, cant I just steel wool and wipe polish on it?

You can give the lockdown bar the EvapoRust treatment. Then, polish out the scratches on top with fine emery cloth, and light oil for lubrication.
Go left to right, right to left only, using the palm of your hand. You can start with a coarser grade of emery, and work your way to fine grit until it's smooth. Then clean it well with paint thinner, or mineral spirits and finally shine it up with Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. I've done many rails and lockdown bars this way, and it's a workout, but the results are worth it.

#43 9 months ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

A while back, I did a "Flip Flop" for someone.
I had several broken off screws in the coils as well.
You MUST use brass screws and you must install the brass insulating washer between the coil and it's bracket. Luckily, I had two other games, one of which was only suitable as a parts donor.
I put a tiny dab of oil on the screw threads to keep them free for future disassembly. The screws are easy to break off, because they tend to seize due to corrosion because of the two dissimilar metals.

Yes! these are the ones I was talking about. Last night I pulled all the coil brackets to get them into the Evaporust. I have one that's burnt and it basically fell apart once I pulled the screw out. I'll have to do some Googling today to see if I can track some down. they are 1/4" head with a lock washer and the super thin washer, all in brass.

As for the lockdown, it's pretty decent with 2 rust rings. The top of the game will get worked on much later. Staring with the mech board, then I need to replace the entire bottom board in the cab (this should be fun), then the coin door/lockdown with assembly, and lastly the playfield and rails.
Still not sure what to do with the cab paint. It's not terrible for its age. I thought about just cleaning it as best I could and clear coating it without touch ups.

#44 9 months ago

It's your game and of course you can do as you wish, but I'd advise against clearing a cabinet just for the heck of it. Whatever's left of the original paint will hold up fine in a home environment, and won't see any additional wear like a playfield. All you'll do is give it a really odd mix of patina with a shiny cover. If you or anyone else decides to touch up or restore it in the future, it'll be easier to start with a clean original.

I have a restored Sinbad where the previous owner repainted & cleared the cabinet. Clear looks nice enough since the paint is new & vibrant, but unfortunately the cab got hit/bumped in transit, and clearcoat cracks. Painted wood just shrugs.

#45 9 months ago

Yesterday and today I made decent progress. The T-nuts removed from the old board and added to the new. The hole size needed matched a 7/32 drill bit perfect. To get all the holes lines up I just clamped the boards together and drilled through all the holes (centered as best I could) with a super tiny bit. I only did a full plunge where the T-nuts needed to be installed. Worked out pretty slick.

On to the coils! This is quite tedious but I know it’ll be worth it versus just trying to spot clean. I’m really glad the vintage wire and solider was tough. You can move this stuff around pretty good without the worry of it cracking and breaking. So all removed and into the Evaporust.

I had one G-33 2800 basically fall apart once removed so that’s in the shopping cart already. I’m going to try and test the rest before buying just one. There are a few others that look like they got toast at one point. The G-33 is completely burnt though.

Did some Googling and the coil machine screw is basically non existent in the form factor here. They are Brass 8-32 3/8” SEMS. I did find enough parts on Amazon to fulfill my needs. They are 1/2” so I’ll have to add a washer it two.

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#46 9 months ago

So Evaporust is my new favorite thing. This stuff is amazing. I’m only letting my parts soak for like 4-5 hours and they are coming out so clean. Originally I was expecting the parts to come out looking like trashy metal that was rusty, but that’s not the case. So I had a can of metallic silver ready to paint, but skipped it now.
I don’t own a tumbler and not sure I want to invest in one… currently. But I saw someone in one of these threads talking about waxing the metal after you pull it. So that’s what I did, got everything nice and rinsed and squirted some buffing wax all over them. The tag worked great for the screws and tiny bits, but all the coil assemblies, coin and ball counter, and the score reel I manually rubbed them all down with my hands and then again with a rag to buff them out. Worked great and after a few days now that seems to have sealed them up perfectly.
Split the gear box, cleaned, and super lubed cause I saw that posted. Dremel wire wheeled the coin and ball counter and lubed the contacts. Reassembled a few things and just tested all the mech board coils. Just that one 2800 failed, so that’ll be on order soon.
Hoping to clean all the contacts this weekend so I can start the putting it all back on the new boards.

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#47 9 months ago

Looking great! Hit those stepper contacts with some mother's mag.

#48 9 months ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

Looking great! Hit those stepper contacts with some mother's mag.

I used the super lube on my finger, just a light amount. If it needs more I can
surly add some.

#49 9 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

So Evaporust is my new favorite thing. This stuff is amazing. I’m only letting my parts soak for like 4-5 hours and they are coming out so clean. Originally I was expecting the parts to come out looking like trashy metal that was rusty, but that’s not the case. So I had a can of metallic silver ready to paint, but skipped it now.
I don’t own a tumbler and not sure I want to invest in one… currently. But I saw someone in one of these threads talking about waxing the metal after you pull it. So that’s what I did, got everything nice and rinsed and squirted some buffing wax all over them. The tag worked great for the screws and tiny bits, but all the coil assemblies, coin and ball counter, and the score reel I manually rubbed them all down with my hands and then again with a rag to buff them out. Worked great and after a few days now that seems to have sealed them up perfectly.
Split the gear box, cleaned, and super lubed cause I saw that posted. Dremel wire wheeled the coin and ball counter and lubed the contacts. Reassembled a few things and just tested all the mech board coils. Just that one 2800 failed, so that’ll be on order soon.
Hoping to clean all the contacts this weekend so I can start the putting it all back on the new boards.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I was surprised the first time with Evapo too. Great stuff.

Going to look great when you’re done. Gonna print new coil paper wraps too?

#50 9 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

I used the super lube on my finger, just a light amount. If it needs more I can
surly add some.

The mothers Mag is to polish up the contacts to make sure the pad is super clean. The super lube just helps the spider glide. Doesn’t help as much with continuity

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