Looks the same to me.

Okay, I really hoped not to have to come here with a problem so soon, after having my JP working almost flawless for half a year. but alas.. I need your input, dear JP owners Suddenly last week it seemed like all switches triggered and the machine was completely confused. After some switch checking, I observe this: (See attached image)

1. When slapping the cabinet, it triggers all switches in the bottom row in the matrix (marked in red). This also happened at itnervals without me touching cabinet, and the playfield up resting on te hackbox.
2. When activating the left slingshot, the corresponding row (marked in green) switches all trigger.
3. Likewise with the right slingshot and its corresponding row switches.

Also it seemed like the left t-rex movement switch was dead. I yanked abit on the wires to get them off the switch, and then suddenly it triggered again when pushing the leaf. Nevertheless I replaced the switch and connected wires, and it does not work now.

Any ideas or similar experiences?

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Does anyone have/had issues with the T-Rex not going far enough down to eat the ball, picking it up in its teeth and jamming there? It keeps doing this always now and its so anoying. Ive tried to bend his buck teeth in to front but no luck so far..........

Ha, my bad! I thought you were referring to the topper, not the metal bracket which was clearly stated in the original post. Does look nice though!

Was thinking the same thing, but after a few moments, I realized, "Why would he paint the back chrome. That would serve no purpose."

Hey Edenecho for me it was a stupid resistor array above where the switches returned into the board.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-help-needed

Thanks Chad and Pimp77 for the confirmation. It sort of took me by surprise that the two in-lane lights were staying on and when I didn't see them listed in the single lamps test for the lamp matrix I wasn't sure, but with your confirmation I now know it is normal.

Gord

Thanks, will look closer at that area. You mean that R116 or RA16 was faulty? Both rather close to eachother

Thank you, hit the buy it now button on one.

speaking of toppers I installed a Red led bulb in the T-Rex toppers eye and plugged it into one of the small light sockets on-top, looks pretty good, the topper is just to plain looking to me.

It was RA16 right above CN10

I notice that when I enter the 'Game Diagnostics' that after the service credits display the system displays what I am guessing is an error for switch #59 (Row 3, Column 8), T-Rex Trough, because it hasn't been activated in 50 games. All other switch on Row 3, Column 8, are working as expected.

On page 27 of the JP manual it lists where switch #59 resides (near the right ramp entrance and entrance to the Raptor Pit). I checked both on top and below the playfield in this general area and cannot find the T-Rex Trough switch.

I put the game into the switch edges test and activated every switch near this area and cannot find a switch #59 and all the switches I activated worked as expected. The only time that I have seen this switch #59 error is when I cycle through the 'Game Diagnostics' screens right after the service credits screeen and before the burn-in minutes screen (page 23 of the JP manual). As a side note the T-Rex works as expected during game play and also during 'Game Diagnostics' testing.

Any input on this issue is greatly appreciated as always.

Gord

If I remember correctly it was the trex switch activated when trex is all the way up. So you're getting the report because trex is at the top of his range.

Hi Crispin,

Thanks for the reply. So I am guessing that this is no big deal then as the T-Rex seems to function as expected.

Gord

Switch 59 would be underneath the playfield inside the plastic trough that leads away from the T-Rex.

Do you know off hand if that switch even does anything?

The scoring would be based off of the saucer in front of the t-rex, the game would know the ball was picked up based on the saucer, and it knows to eject the ball from the subway based on the VUK switch... an eaten ball doesn't roll over the control room switch in the subway, right?

Thanks Chad, I will check it out.

Looks like the only thing that switch really does is score 250,000 points. Nothing more.

Where do we send our request for a membership card? Got my machine last night!

Needs a bit of work. The VUK doesn't shoot straight. Was working 90% of the time when I was inspecting it, and of course it works 10% of the time after I get it home. There a switch scoring points with every flipper flip. There's a target missing. A few other things need replace. And hoping the bulbs are burnt out and not a wiring issue.

But here's my main concern. It appears that this game was originally shipped over seas. I didn't know this until I got it home. The game works just fine minus the issues above, so it's obviously been converted over. Other than switching over power, were there any other differences with this game than ones meant for the states?

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Interesting. So you lose out on points if the t-rex fumbles the ball...

Welcome! Ive got an asian persuasion game too.

My buddy bought your LW yesterday, he is very happy. I sent him your way, thanks for being a good guy!

Thanks! Let him know that if he has any questions, go ahead and ask.

Thanks Chad sold my JP a couple of weeks ago and shouldn't rely on my memory

Hi Chad,

Switch #59 needed an adjustment and now it registers every time the T-REX gobbles the ball and it does award 250,000 points. Thanks for letting me know the exact location of the switch. My JP is now working 100 percent. This is my first DE game and I was a little concerned that it would be more difficult from a maintenance perspective than my B/W games, but it really is pretty similar.

Gord

I always get balls hung up in the weirdest places on my machines. Look at this doozy. Just right as to not set the switch off, LOL.
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Ha, if you still had a third ball in play, that could make for some easy points.

Is it considered cheating to prolong a multiball mode when there's a trapped ball?

Before I made adjustments, there were times when I would start tri-ball with the t-rex, but the ball would stay in its mouth instead of falling into the subway. That made it much easier.

Unfortunately, yes. Unless it's "skillfully" trapped under an upper flipper. You have to do what you can to either free the trapped ball, or trap up so the game can be opened and they can be unstuck. Sorry to be a killjoy.

I have a ROM question for JP.

Current ROM Versions On My JP
Game 4.04 (C5)
Display 4.00 (ROM 0)
Sound 4.23

ROM Versions Ordered
Game 5.13 (C5)
Display 5.10 (ROM 0)
Sound Newest Version (U7, U17, U21)

Does anyone have a change log for these ROM version updates? I checked the usual places (Action Pinball and John Wart's site 'That Pinball Place') for ROM version change logs and cannot find any type of change log for what was fixed/added in these newer ROM versions.

Thanks.

Gord

i dont have any answer for you but a question:
where did you order new rom versions from?

Use the following URL to order your pinball ROMS from 'That Pinball Place' which is John Wart's web site.

Pinball ROM Store
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/index.htm

Data East/Stern/Sega Pinball ROMS
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/de.html

His prices are very reasonable and he ships right away. I have ordered pinball ROMS from him many times and have never been disappointed with the ROMS or the service.

Gord

If you buy that many roms, you're likely better off buying a burner and UV eraser. I've never regretted buying mine and I've been able to upgrade my pins and drop in modified roms such as freeplay ones on classic Sterns. Upgrading JP was one of the first things I did when buying it.

By the way, I'd be surprised to learn that the sound roms were ever updated. I could be wrong, but don't know if those got any updates on most pins.

I had to heat up the head part to widen the mouth to fit over the new grill.

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Interesting! My original plan for the t-rex mod was to make a rubber skin that would fit over it.

I haven't tried it, but the top teeth I've made for my mod might work with the original t-rex shell...

Speaking of you and your T-Rex, what's the wait list look like? Not that I want to spend that much right now, since it will probably be the last thing I do to my machine, after restoring it. But it does look nice, and would like to eventually get one. Figured if it may take you a year to get through your current list, I might be interested in getting my name on there. But if it will take 3 months, then I'll just hold off until I'm ready.

I don't want to take over this thread with my mod. It might be better to discuss in the t-rex mod thread.

nice teeth mod! hopefully you can get it to eat the balls more consistently

Testing some bulbs tonight. Making sure I do it right.
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OK. What's the proper way to lift the playfield? This is my first machine like this. My first one, Laser War was a single pivot point, so all you had to do is lift the front.

I managed to raise it vertically, but would need a step stool to reach the flippers. And the bottom of it is way too far to hook onto the bungy cord. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get it to go vertical and have it lower in the machine.

Are there any video's of this? Seemed like if done improperly, a lot could be smashed by the back of the cabinet while raising it.

Couple options. To use the bungee cord, lift it just like a single pivot game. Do you have the eye bolt at the bottom right of the pf by the flasher bulb? That's where the bungee should hook onto.

You can also lift and pull it out, then rest the feet on the lock down receiver like more modern games. If you really have the room, you can do that, pull it all the way out and raise it to lean against the backbox. If you pull it out like this, be careful pushing it back in, as the rear "bump" on the rails is fairly high. You may have to lift it over to get it back into position.

Ok. Thanks. The regular pivot just didn't seem to go smoothly, so I stopped. I felt like I would have been forcing it, and didn't feel correct. So I'll try that again. And I did see the loop on the playfield on the right side for the bungee cord.

I only have the left foot to rest on the lock bar. Guess I'm missing the right one? Thought that maybe it was just a single foot, since I do have a single prop bar on the right.

And the third way is the way I've figured out how to get the playfield vertical. And yeah, I had to rock or twist the playfield to get it back.

So just lifting from the get-go is what I needed to do all along. Will have to get some light in the cabinet, because it just felt like it was catching on something.

Thanks!

probably the corrugate sheath that covers the harness going into the back box.

REST WHAT FEET?? I dont have anything to redt the playfield on if i pull it forward. I use a piece of foam to rest it on the lockdown bar spot.

Supports were off mine also when I got it and I would wedge foam under the pf too. Then I found the mounting holes were there, so a previous owner must've taken them off.

Get new (and improved) ones from Mantis. Soooo much better than wedging foam under there

http://www.mantisamusements.com/bracketsupport.htm

Well look at that, didnt know they made upgraded replacement supports and bracket, thank you very much

That was it. It also didn't help the first few times before, I thought it was supposed to pull forward just a bit then tilt up. I think I've mastered it now. Thanks!

bam............. I have a plan, pictures if it fits.

.

JP_Jeep.jpg

I was thinking of putting my jeep over the shooter lane

Getting ready to order a bunch of parts to start restoring my JP. Sure I'll have a bunch more questions later.

Ordering rubber for it. Is it all the same? I am doing it all black like how it was. Any kits that are better than other? Also, how about Super Bands? I had them on my Laser War flippers, but wasn't sure if it was due to the bands or the ball guide, but as soon as the ball would roll down and hit the rubber, all momentum was lost and would basically come to a dead stop. Always threw me off. Super Bands or no?

In my experience that is what superbands are for. Extra sticky making it easier for live catching and such So its just personal preference.