I'm not at all sure what the difference between 20-10197-1, 20-10197-2, and just plain 20-10197 is.

But I suspect it's just something like wire placement, or connector used, or diode polarity. All of which you can check.

I'm pretty sure that I just ordered 20-10197 (just the plain numbered coil) and wired it in when I had problems here, and there wasn't any difficulty.

I'm surprised to see how crispy your magnet coils are!!!

The original magnet coils for Addams Family didn't have good thermal cut-off's attached, but the replacement coils did... I hope your replacement coils have good thermal cut offs.

Not me, but another tech had a magnet coil with a faulty thermal cut off that was starving power to the coil all the time (even when it was cool). But this was easy to test for. 4.8 ohms (more or less) is correct for these coils, if the coil was reading 173 ohms or something because of a faulty thermal cut off, I'd suspect it wouldn't be very strong!

All my problems with magnet coils not being strong (or not doing what they are supposed to do) were related to what triggered them (if they aren't reliably triggered, the magnet isn't the problem!), or the power transistors running them, so that's what I'd focus on after replacement.

These should be fused, right? Individually? I've had a lot of fuses act as a resistor. I seem to find this more often than other techs do. So if there is a fuse involved, change that fuse.

Finally, you've got a magnet working correctly, with good power. You've got other magnets that are suspect. It's some work, but swap them. If the weakness or lack of power follows the magnet, you've got a problem with the part.

This kind of stuff isn't easy to find/fix.

Let us know what you find.