(Topic ID: 313298)

New Rebuilds of mostly 80-90’s era Bally/Williams/Midway Pinballs and Arcades

By Gman3

2 years ago


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  • Latest reply 10 days ago by pokerag2
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    There are 211 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.
    #1 2 years ago

    After quite a few people reached out regarding the restoration process of some of my previous games, will start here with my next projects. Been playing, trading, shipping containers, restoring, collecting and parting out games for 20+ years. I finally took time over a year ago, to build out a room in the basement to make the restoration process be more organized and enjoyable, as I typically just had the entire basement, garage, and game room filled with parts and projects continually going on.

    so here we go....Fish Tales & Funhouse are up next

    Never too concerned with starting condition of playfields, playfields or cabinets as I primarily replace as many new parts as possible. My main issue is the time consuming part that corroded and rusted parts take up. However, those games are also the most rewarding.

    The goal is to have multiple projects going on at the same time as much of the process is repetitive and much simpler if you can have cabinet restorations strip down, parts cleaning, refinishing all going on together. This is especially useful when you are waiting on parts or issues arise, you can move to another part of the process with another game and not sitting around waiting for backordered items to show up.

    Generally the goal is to finish 2-3 games at a time in a 3 to 6 month period while going at a normal leisurely pace when free days open themselves up between, life, kids and work.

    Fish Tales is an interesting project that happened to present itself from a TMNT which was sold to a local Operator / Collector who unfortunately had a friend who passed while they were bringing this Fish Tales back to life. So I'm looking forward to this project as it has some additional meaning and story behind it.

    This game was literally picked up in multiple pieces. Missing boards, parts, glass, topper, lower cabinet had the bottom fall out at some point.
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    #2 2 years ago

    Base Game starting point

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    #3 2 years ago

    Cabinet strip down and organized for cleaning

    Before tumbling always clean parts with Simple Green and or Rust Remover

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    #4 2 years ago

    Dirt removed from cabinet parts before tumbling

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    #5 2 years ago

    Tumbling 3-4 Days

    Mineral Spirits and Flitz

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    #6 2 years ago

    Wow that's a beautiful work shop for pins.

    #7 2 years ago

    Light board teardown

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    #8 2 years ago

    Cabinet parts rack to be refurbished

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    #9 2 years ago

    Next step is while Cabinet parts are organized and parts are running in the tumbler, gives me some time to triple check playfield for parts order as shipping gets to be expensive if having to continually reorder what you might have missed. However, it’s still nearly unavoidable once you start to break things down.

    Taking tons of pre teardown pics is crucial. I only uploaded general pics to give overview of the playfields original condition.

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    #10 2 years ago

    Take off for New Parts .... there will most likely be more new parts added during the rebuild, but quite a bit of new parts already stocked for the generic replacements that are required doing rebuilds such as Nylon & T-Nuts, Rubbers, Switches, Cabinet Clips, etc.

    Estimated parts cost ranges from 4000-5000 not including Base Game. This does not change much from game to game, since nearly everything is getting replaced outside of wire harness, a few boards and game specific parts. Once orders are complete I will look to share receipts and official total from the google doc I keep a record of.

    Playfield
    Star Post
    Bumper Post
    Lane Guide
    Playfield Plastic Set
    Playfield Set
    Coil Wrapper Set
    Playfield Decal Set
    Yellow Target
    Square Decal Target
    Fishing Pole Plastic
    Fishing Pole Decal Set
    Playfield Apron
    Apron Cards
    Spinner Decal
    Pop Bumper Cover
    Pop Bumper Base
    Pop Bumper Metal Skirt
    Pop Bumper Red Skirt
    Pop Bumper Switch
    Flipper Assembly Right
    Flipper Assembly Left
    Flipper EOS
    Slingshot Switch Kicker
    Slingshot Switch Score
    11629 Blue Coil
    26-1500 Green Coil
    27-1200 White Coil
    23-800 Yellow Coil
    Flipper Bat "Lightning"
    Clear Plastics
    Pop Bumper Lamp Sockets
    Pop Bumper Body
    Flipper Bushing

    Cabinet
    New Cabinet & Backbox
    Speakers
    Mirrored Radcals
    Mirror Topper Decal
    Backbox Lock
    Playfield Glass
    Playfield Glass Sidechannels
    SIderails
    Lockdown Receiver
    Power Cord
    WPC Shop Out Decal Set
    FIsh Tales Shop Out Decals
    Serial Numbers & Decals
    Flipper Button
    Lockdown Bar
    Legs
    Coin Door
    Levelers
    Wire Harness Clips
    1 1/2"
    1"
    3/4"
    1/2"
    1/4"
    Cash Box Cover
    Cash Box
    Playfield Rear Glass Channel

    Backbox
    PinSound Board
    DMD Driver Board
    CPU
    Translite / Backglass
    Backglass Trim
    Speaker Cover

    Topper
    Mirror Topper Decal
    Fish Knocker Assembly
    Dome
    Fish
    Wire Harness
    Light Board PCB

    #11 2 years ago

    Excellent! Look forward to following along.

    If I can be of any help with wiring or harness needs, please reach out.

    Thanks for sharing your work.

    #12 2 years ago

    Following... I love these threads.

    BTW: I'm impressed (and Jealous) with your shop room, and your organizational skills.

    #13 2 years ago

    Following as well Grover does great work !

    #14 2 years ago

    Swapped over strip down FH Playfield and organize rack for part cleanup

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    #15 2 years ago

    Dental pic for media residue in screw heads, then quick rinse in mineral spirits to get any remaining media dust off parts. Afterwards always drying metal parts With fan to prevent any discoloring due to water spotting

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    #16 2 years ago

    FT up next

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    #17 2 years ago

    All Playfield parts reorganized after tumbling which takes some time but makes the rebuild process very efficient and more enjoyable rather than hunting for everything.

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    #18 2 years ago

    Cabinet hardware organized. Some parts will be tossed and replaced, others might get a second dose of the tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner. Cab parts usually require a bit more attention to get back to new condition.

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    #19 2 years ago

    Parts slowly come in and I try to replace anything that is available OEM and try not to touch up old parts. For example the Original apron was visibly in great condition but had some minor rust in non visible areas so it will just get replaced.

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    #20 2 years ago

    Not worth the time or effort, just replace even though could be disassembled, polished up and make visibly presentable

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    #21 2 years ago

    Does the new style lockdown bar receiver with the spring work with the older style lockdown bar that was on the game? Or are you putting on a new lockdown bar.

    #22 2 years ago
    Quoted from kclements:

    Does the new style lockdown bar receiver with the spring work with the older style lockdown bar that was on the game? Or are you putting on a new lockdown bar.

    I always install the newer updated wpc lockdown bar, since the older 89 style cuts into the cabinet / decals due to how they are tailored back towards the cabinet on the corners and edges.

    Funhouse is a bit more challenging as you have to modify the new lockdown receiver to allow for the the left shooter plunger.

    #23 2 years ago

    Cabinet hardware painted after being cleaned and polished.
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    #25 2 years ago

    Light Boards prepped and repainted. Both sides are completely sanded free of paint so the new coat is not simply covering old paint or imperfections.

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    #26 2 years ago
    Quoted from Gman3:

    Light Boards prepped and repainted. Both sides are completely sanded free of paint so the new coat is not simply covering old paint or imperfections.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Looking good!

    I've wondered about the white paint on the light boards for a long time. The light boards only real purpose is to hold the light sockets and it's always covered by the translite under normal operation so why did they (B/W) paint them white at all? Seems like an unnecessary extra cost for paint and labor.

    Does the white paint reflect more light and thus enhance the total amount of translite brightness? What am I missing here.

    I doubt they painted them white just to look nice for the pin repair man

    #27 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

    Looking good!
    I've wondered about the white paint on the light boards for a long time. The light boards only real purpose is to hold the light sockets and it's always covered by the translite under normal operation so why did they (B/W) paint them white at all? Seems like an unnecessary extra cost for paint and labor.
    Does the white paint reflect more light and thus enhance the total amount of translite brightness? What am I missing here.
    I doubt they painted them white just to look nice for the pin repair man

    I definitely think it's to reflect the light better , maybe avoid "hot spots"

    Side not but current enjoying some of Gmans work right now and kinda enjoying the fresh incasdecent lamps over LEDs

    #28 2 years ago

    2nd Board created with various hole sizes to flip hardware and paint opposite ends.

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    #29 2 years ago

    Out with the old…

    99% of all FT’s are faded even if slightly, while the real orange hides under the hardware.

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    1 week later
    #30 2 years ago

    New cabinets arrived but will still need to be sanded & prepped for minor imperfections at drill holes and cabinet seems before spraying.

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    #31 2 years ago

    Lower cab prep as well

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    #32 2 years ago
    Quoted from Gman3:

    Lower cab prep as well
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Hi Grover.
    Before you get too far on the FT cabinet. Double check this hole. It is in the wrong spot.
    Glueing a dowel in there is easy enough right now.

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    #33 2 years ago
    Quoted from High_End_Pins:

    Hi Grover.
    Before you get too far on the FT cabinet. Double check this hole. It is in the wrong spot.
    Glueing a dowel in there is easy enough right now. [quoted image]

    yikes.... will definitely look it over tomorrow and much appreciated catch. Great to hear from you Chris, it's been ages. Quite jealous of your Bally/Wms Wire rack

    #34 2 years ago
    Quoted from Gman3:

    yikes.... will definitely look it over tomorrow and much appreciated catch. Great to hear from you Chris, it's been ages. Quite jealous of your Bally/Wms Wire rack

    Yeah it’s been a long time. Great projects definitely in need of a new lease on life.

    #35 2 years ago

    Grover does excellent work currently enjoying his WH20 restoration now and it’s like a new game plays and looks perfect !

    #36 2 years ago

    Was able to shoot the cabinet today. Paint it all equally to allow for a much smoother surface for the decals to be applied. 3-4 coats. Lightly sanding in between as needed.

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    4 weeks later
    #37 2 years ago

    Gman3

    Quoted from Gman3:

    Cabinet hardware painted after being cleaned and polished.

    What type of paint is that you are using on the hardware? Getting ready to start a FH restore myself. I'd also be curious about the blue cabinet paint choice. I've understood it's a hard color to match.

    #38 1 year ago

    After a couple weeks wait on some important parts… we are back in business !

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    #39 1 year ago

    Depends if using Phoenix Arcade Decals or Radcals. I typically take every set to get individually matched at a local shop that does wonders with custom matching paint as there is no ‘one Color ’ for funhouse blue. It varies dramatically.

    I’m using Cabinet Enamel Paint, it’s pretty pricey and need at least 2 Gallons if shooting 4-5 coats.

    Quoted from Techmaniac:

    Gman3

    What type of paint is that you are using on the hardware? Getting ready to start a FH restore myself. I'd also be curious about the blue cabinet paint choice. I've understood it's a hard color to match.

    #40 1 year ago

    Oh yes some action on the assembly line !

    #41 1 year ago

    New Funhouse cabinets (yes, even new cabinets require work if done properly) were filled and sanded where needed then 5 coats of cabinet enamel paint were applied. Games were taped off and sprayed to shoot for the original overspray look.

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    #42 1 year ago
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    #43 1 year ago

    The warning label looks good on the fishtales

    #44 1 year ago

    Cabs Drilled and ready for new ground braid and hardware

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    #45 1 year ago

    Hardware and ground braid coming in…

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    #46 1 year ago

    Insert Panels are tough… after various techniques and compounds and have had my best luck with sandnet discs 60-120-320-400

    Also in the process of a local fabricating these in the future as they can be waterjet cut.

    And yes the back gets a once over with 60 grit
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    #47 1 year ago

    This is so inspiring. I just finished my 1st restoration and being the first I didn't take all the necessary steps to make it a first class restoration. Thanks for sharing and setting the bar high! Looking forward to more.

    #48 1 year ago

    Cabinet nearly completed

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    #49 1 year ago

    Tearing apart mechs and cleaning before hitting the tumbler. Lots of these parts will be tossed for new after inspecting welds and checking for flaws.

    Important to clean and soak with rust remover to attack most of the surface corrosion before dumping in the tumbler.

    Reminder : this game was sold as fully shopped with titans and leds

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    #50 1 year ago

    Rebuilding mechs

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