Dirty optos are common, so clean them. (I'm sure you did this...)
A lot of opto failure is found when you unsolder the QED123 (transmitter) or QSD123 (receiver) LED's. You'll find that one leg is actually broken, right at the top of the board, still making connection... until it doesn't.
While a lot of games this age are suffering capacitor failure on the opto boards (there is a radial 100uf 35v capacitor that is corroding traces and causing random opto or other switch matrix problems), on your game I think the opto board has an axial capacitor, and those seem to not be failing...
Anyway, check the opto board and see if there is any hint of corrosion or a 'wet ring' under the capacitor. There won't be, but check it anyway.
This could be quite hard to find, so try to force a failure by going into switch edges test, and bang on the VUK mechanism underneath with the handle end of a screwdriver to see if the beam is getting disconnected intermittently by vibration.
Other than that, test every switch on the playfield and see if there is any phantom triggering due to a diode on some other switch not properly protecting it's row/column.
Good luck!