Looking for ideas for a mod to replace the "Shoot T-Rex" sign. It just seems out of place. Is there a toy jeep like the one they flee the T-Rex in?

I'm very new to board repair. Can someone provide a link for where to purchase a replacement for R18 location of the DMD Control Board.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/1/17/DE_520-5055-00_DMD_Control_Board.JPG

I know this is bad, because it's snapped in half. Are there other common issues with these DMD Control Boards. I guess what I'm asking is since I'm ordering should I buy anything else to have on hand just incase that is not the only problem.

Thank you,

I also ordered a Jeep for my Jurassic Park. I'm hoping it will fit nicely into the machine, but if not it might be a toy for kids.

Alright, so I've been messing with my Jurassic Park...not really knowing what I was doing. Today I was trying to track down why the TOP EJECT (VIO / BRN) and DIVERTER (VIO / BLU) weren't working. I traced both wires back to a a common plug J2 on the PPB BOARD. While in coil test mode I tested each coil on that plug. Everyone worked except for those two. Now by accident I reversed two of the plugs. One of these plugs was the TOP EJECT (9). All of a sudden it was firing, however the other coil wasn't working. Now I probably shouldn't have done this, but I decided to also try the DIVERTER (4) in this working slot. Again it fired. At this point it seems logical that there wasn't a problem in the wiring or coil. It seems that the issue is somewhere on the board. Does anyone have any suggestion for what I should test or look for next?

So I'm getting worse. I took of the PPB BOARD for inspection. The the naked eye everything looked good. Nothing obvious. I reinstal the board and now most coils don't fire. Is there something fairly obvious that I might have failed to do when putting the board back into the machine? Maybe related, but when I put pressure onto the board (tightening screws) the VUK and/or Launch Ball coils fire. This machine is driving me crazy.

Alright, I replaced one of the 8A fuses which tested bad. Went back into diagnostic mode. I was testing the coils, which seemed to be back to where I was at originally. Then *pop*, *sizzle*, smoke! The issue seemed to be coming from the transistors on the lower left hand side of the CPU board. Seriously.

EDIT: Doing some reading this seems like it could be the route of the problem. Guess I'll have some practice wiring.

WOW!!! This is an exciting day for JP owners. I just ordered the ROMS and sent a donation to Chad. As a group would the JP owners be interested in chipping in to buy Chad something? I don't have a lot to spare, but if we all chip in something we could buy him something cool.

I'll need some time on the machine before I can fully answer that, but by looking at the code I'd say your scores on a great game should be higher, but you will also have fewer great games because tri-ball is no longer guaranteed to be lit on the third ball. You could have a terrible game for two balls, but if you complete Feed T-Rex, twin Jackpots, CHAOS, CHAOS, Feed T-Rex, and twin Super Jackpots on the third ball you're going to have a solid score. 12 shots is tough, but with a smart missile you essentially have to complete just two shots to then have two opportunities at completing one of the CHAOS modes. The smart missile can be used to take care of the other one of them. From there it's two more shots for the Super Jackpot. In my opinion that WAS the best strategy for high scores.

Now the increased difficulty of starting tri-ball combined with the increased scoring opportunity of the other modes make other strategies more viable. Like all good codes one of the most important things is to have a balance of risk / reward. In my opinion Chad's new code certainly strikes a better balance between the other strategies.

PS: For those really counting my shot count, I'm not counting the "H" as a shot since it would be nearly impossible to not collect it on the auto launch(es).

I need similar help with my raptor pit coil. I was having so many issues I finally just replace my MPU board. That fixed all of my issues, however in the process my raptor pit coil stopped functioning (previously that was working fine).

I actually have a new PPB board, but I haven't opened it yet. I originally though that was the problem, but while that was being shipped I was able to trace the problems to the transistors on the MPU board. That's not to say there couldn't be a problem on the PPB board too, but it seems unlikely that a new problem would occur at the exact moment a new MPU board was installed. I'm hoping I can still send the unopened PPB back minus a 15% restocking fee.

PS: Would anyone be interested in buying my old MPU board. I'm pretty sure the issue is in the transistors. I just don't have the soldering skill to fix it myself and wanted the problem corrected. I had previously received this board from someone who claimed it was 100% working.

Hmm...I've never thought about them as being the fence from the movie. I'd still rather have the scoop mod, but I do like the originals better now.

I need some help. I recently installed a new MPU and PPB boards from Rottendog. After the installation my raptor kickers stopped firing, prior to the installation this was working. It has 78v power and if I ground the return wire (Brown/Black) it fires. I'm really not great at diagnosing problems. What's my next step? Does this point to to a problem with one of the new boards? Please be as detailed as possible.

Sorry, how do I check this?

Perfect...I'll troubleshoot later tonight.

I didn't uncover any issue. However since then, I did receive a call from Rottendog. They seem like they are willing to work with me to get things working. The first "homework" I had was to ground the transformer on the MPU board. Looking at the schematic this was Q30. Grounding Q30 caused the raptor pit coil to fire. I'll try to keep posting here for anyone with a similar problem.

Sorry for the long delay in posting. Kind of a boring fix anyway. I had to ship the board back to Rottendog. They replaced transistor Q30 and things are now working. I have to replace a ball trough switch and sling switch and then my complete project Jurassic Park will be working. After all the board fixes or replacements, I think I'd have been better off just buying a working machine. Still, at least there is another working Jurassic Park.

EDIT: Oh, I also have to install Chad's new code.

Finally, 2 1/2 years after rejoining the club, with a $900 project machine, I have a 100% playable Jurassic Park. The only thing not fixed is the left right motor on the T-Rex. I'm not even sure I want it fixed. I'll try to post some pictures soon, but for now I'm just enjoying finally playing the updated code from ChadH. Thank you for your dedication to improving this already great machine.

As you are sourcing mods I'd highly suggest adding these palm trees. I sharpened a paperclip to give it a sharp point and inserted it though 1" of the trunks. They can then be twisted onto any of the screws on the playfield.

http://www.amazon.com/14pcs-50-1-9-inch-Coconut/dp/B00BXYYVFM/ref=sr_1_1

I also added these dinosaur toys:

http://www.amazon.com/Papo-55023-Velociraptor/dp/B0036MDNNU/ref=sr_1_9

http://www.amazon.com/Papo-55006-Pteranodon/dp/B000GL1BHO/ref=sr_1_16

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At times I'll also add this goat to my machine.

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I had been wanting a ceramic ball, but the $50 cost was a bit steep for a captive ball. I just ordered the $15 version from Mezel Mods. Thank you for the link.

Not sure about your proposed location, but this sign would for sure look better then the box with decals. Might be easy enough to wire up the bulb in place of the camera decal. That way the flasher could still be mounted behind it too. If you print them up, I'd be interested painting one to test out.

Wondering what you other owners think about removing the lights above the scoops. I'm experimenting with just lighting the scoops themselves.

Jurassic_Park_Scoops_(resized).jpg

Yeah the Loop Combo mod looks great. I figured I'd try this out first, but I might do both.

I drilled two holes in the subway. What is shown are three LED bulbs. I was planning on the four surface mount LEDs, but these seemed to be better.

I was a bit nervous, but I figured there really wasn't too much that could have gone wrong. Even with some holes in the side they would still be 100% functional and it's in a spot that you'd never see. It might be possible to do two colors, but I'm probably not going to try to squeeze in another hole. To me the "C", "A", and "S" shots are pretty easy to understand since they are also illuminated by playfield inserts. I'd rather just highlight the System Startup, Computer Screen, Park Revenue, and Mr. DNA.

Can someone do me a favor? In this process I think I switched some wires on the subway switches. Whenever I hit either scoop it acts like I'm hitting the right scoop. Could you please take a picture or describe the wiring of these switches. The ball still ejects fine so I'm not quite sure how they function.

Seeing Tim's machine reminded me that I also did the illuminated background artwork. Super simple--seriously it took less then 2 minutes.

Jurassic_Park_LED_(resized).jpg

PS: Sorry for the crappy pictures.

While working under their I did try to adjust that switch. I also re-soldered, but didn't do a whole lot of testing. The common wires were quick connected and I didn't take a good look at them before they fell off. I'll go though more testing tonight, but I was just wondering why the switch above the kicker seemed to be starting the computer modes. Maybe I just have the other switch too sensitive and it's triggering when the ball falls into either scoop.

EDIT: Re-soldered it again and it works now.

This, minus steps #2, #4, #5, and #7. I used a 20" natural white strip from Comet. I mounted mine to the cabinet itself, so there is no worry of raising or lowering the playfield. I didn't have a stopwatch, but it was really easy.

A few weeks ago I posted a picture showing the removal of the scoop lights. Yesterday, I have also removed the shoot t-rex box. These shots are now lit by lighting the scoops themselves. After testing, I'm going to be using 1 SMD Super Flex (red). I haven't texted other colors, but the red is very bright. Plus for the scoops the SMD is thin enough to be tapped in place. I'm waiting to place my next LED order until I have my BSD, but once I do I'll post some more pictures. I've very happy with the clean look of the machine.

PS: I'm not a good player so getting to System Failure is not something that happens often. Hit it yesterday--what a crazy chaotic wizard mode.

Here are the scoop lights mentioned above. These look orange in the picture, but it's actually a vibrant red. I know others mentioned keeping them on all the time, but I choose to only light them when the shot was ready.
IMG_1792 (resized).JPG

In this case I just used the scoop and "feed t-rex" wires, but you could tap if you wanted to keep the original in place.

Not currently, but I may eventually add in a green light. Although I'm slightly worried what it would look like if both lights are lit at the same time. I'm trying to think...that happens, right?

This isn't a light strip. I drilled a hole through the front of the scoop and after testing found the best bulb to be the 1 SMD Flex from Comet.

PS: What would happen if you just connected both wires to the same bulb base?

Yeah, worst case wasn't that bad. Holes in an area where no ball touches and no one sees.

Yeah, the Chaos Jackpot is where the big points are. The game is more balanced with Chad's code, but if you're going for a high score you need to focus there.

I did the paperclip fix and haven't had a single comment on it. I think because it's your game you notice it, but assuming you bent it into a somewhat decent shape, it's hard for most to spot.

PS: I also use paperclips to mount all of my mods.

Yeah, I pretty sure Chad released the roms for people to burn. If I remember correctly he does have a paypal address though where you can make a donation. Maybe I'm wrong though. I'm sure there are some complicated things with working on coding for a machine that another company owns the rights too. I hope in the future some other titles can be done, including Williams/Bally. There are so many games that could benefit from updated coding.

I think this is normal, but please correct me if I'm mistaken. Why does the left most pop bumper often not light with the other two? Is there some meaning behind which pop bumpers are lit? If not, has anyone ever rewired them so they just all light together? I guess to me it just makes it look like that third one is broken. Thoughts?

Since I'm posting I'll add a few more pictures of minor lighting mods.

1) I already posted how I removed the "Shoot T-Rex" box. Instead I mounted the light below the scoop. I originally added the spotlight to the screw on the right, but found this blocked too much of the scoop from the players perspective. I moved it to the left. I also also added the chained goat back to my machine.
IMG_1943 (resized).JPG

I added an 8" LED strip to further illuminate the topper. I might eventually tap into the shoot t-rex wire so that it illuminates red when it's time to feed t-rex. Anyone have any other recommendations on fun ways incorporate the topper lighting into the gameplay?
IMG_1938 (resized).JPG

Agreed, you need to investigate and adjust something. It should go into the pop bumpers every time.

I have no issue with the scoring. Sometimes I'm playing for score and focus on the multiball. Other times, I'm playing to reach system failure. Actually, as I'm thinking about it, most of the time I start out playing the modes. I rarely shoot for the dinosaur targets, unless there is one left. Even then it's often safer to try to shoot for the boat docks.

I had a similar experience with the skillshot.

I like the way you think. The downfall with that would be the mosquito shot illuminating for the egg shot. I still think that would be worth exploring.

I kept blinkers by the T-Rex and raptor crate. I think they highlight areas of action.

No I'm talking about the blinking lights. The only ones I kept were where the t-rex is pushing the vehicle and where the workers are running towards the explosion near the raptor crate. I don't really even know where the blinkers were originally. I just occasionally add them to places like that where there is an explosion or action. It almost give the artwork a sense of movement.

I think JP is actually one of my favorite translights light up. I used a mix of cool white and incandescents. The blinkers I left in are the ones out on the bottom.

IMG_2091[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_2089[1] (resized).JPG

I used thick paperclips for mine. The wire works perfectly so I can't imagine how buying something would make any difference.

Nice work, can't wait to see the 3D backglass. I never really had an issue with the backglass; but if you could create an alternative payfield; I'd be interested.

Mostly joking. I'm just not a fan of Markus Rothkranz's playfield art style.

I've owned the game twice and both included a topper. I've assumed that many have simply been broken or lost.

Wow, I haven't seen that one before. That's pretty nice. I agree that the addition of a visitor center would be cool.

I'd second the stampede scene. I also think having the Visitor's Center somewhere on there would be cool. Perhaps a nod to Dennis' broken down jeep on the back right with the broken sign pointing to the boat docks. I'd prefer it's not that actual scene, just a something that reminds the player of that scene.

JP (resized).png

Ditto, it would be fun to light it mirrored to the boat dock lighting.

I'm a fan of the game, but JP probably does get the least amount of play in my current lineup. For whatever reason it just doesn't have that same "just one more game" feeling, as games like TS or BSD. I do still love it in my collection though because it's more of a mode based game.

I can't answer your question, but I think using this as an opportunity to upgrade to color is a good idea.

Question for the group. I have recently been noticing that I'm almost blinded with flashing lights when playing JP. Is that normal? Have you done anything to try to correct this?

Thank you for the reply. It's not just while waiting for the game. If I'm remembering correctly it's worst during multiball. It is adding to the challenge of the game, which could be a good thing; but it honestly would start to hurt my eyes after awhile. It's just too bright. I might have to do some testing to see if I could add some lighting strips to be always on. That way it wouldn't be going from complete dark to light (similar to having lights on in the room).

Did my first board repair yesterday on JP. I finally solved some lights that were not working by replacing a transformer and resistor.

Anyone have pictures with spotlights added to their JP? I'm thinking about trying it out to reduce the blinding of the flashers.

These are the best palm trees IMHO:

https://www.amazon.com/NUOLUX-Model-15Pcs-Scenery-Coconut/dp/B01M1VFNH5/ref=sr_1_8

I mounted mine in groups, which I think makes them look a little more realistic then one tree, one tree, one tree, etc. I also bend them so they look like they have some character. To mount them I drilled a very narrow hole through the trunk and ran a wire up about a half inch. Paperclips work great if you don't have a spool of wire sitting around. Then finish them off with a dab of hot glue. I'll try to post some pictures later.

PS: I do totally understand wanting to keep the game looking clean though. There are times where I've been tempted to take everything off, but what always gets me are the Pteranodons. The ones from Papo are just so much better. Then the trees really go with those and give the machine some depth. Do whatever you like.

Found an old picture of the palm trees that I can share. I'm assuming it was taken with all the lights off to show off the illuminated scoops.

ce4c65446f467aa589e29b76a5995e8bc030bca7 (resized).jpg

They have replaced the light towers. They only light when ready to shoot, but are not tied into the CHAOS. You have to go by the insert in front of the scoops for that.

If someone near Tri-State (WI, IL, IA) is looking to join the club I'd be interested in trading for or towards a FT, JD, RS, STTNG, SM, MET, or AFM. If trading towards one of those higher end pins, I'd also be willing to include deals that might include a BSD and/or Gold Strike. +/- cash might also be an option. I'm pretty much only looking for a trade at the moment. I really do still love my JP, but it's time to shake up the collection and something has to go.

I helped to load my JP out the door yesterday. It's officially leaving tomorrow, but I've played it for the last time. JP was the first machine I purchased and is one of my favorite movies. In fact, wife and I's first, or perhaps second date (depending on what we're counting), was seeing Jurassic Park III. I'll also miss how new players gravitated towards JP. Probably 9 out of 10 times it was the first machine guest would play. I would be happy rejoin the club in the future, but for now it's goodbye to the club.

Fish Tales - I really love my collection at this point, so it's making tough choices. Of the machines I have now The Shadow and Congo are the closest to "permanent keepers". When I thought about it as an entire collection, it seemed like Fish Tales was a better complement.